Removing an existing lawn is often the first step in a landscape renovation project, whether the goal is installing a new garden, creating a patio space, or replacing turf. The choice of removal method is based on three factors: the urgency of the project, the available budget for equipment or materials, and the preference for using chemical agents versus passive, non-chemical processes. Selecting the appropriate technique ensures the ground is properly cleared and prepared.
Physical Removal Methods
Physical removal offers the quickest path to bare soil, allowing for immediate commencement of the new project. This method involves directly severing the turf and its root structure from the underlying earth. For small areas, a spade or mattock can be used manually, but this is highly labor-intensive and results in uneven sod chunks.
For larger spaces, a motorized sod cutter is the preferred mechanical option, typically rented from equipment centers. Before operating, mow the grass to the lowest setting and water the area one to three days prior, as moist soil facilitates easier cutting. The blade should be set to cut one to two inches deep, sufficient to capture the root system without removing excessive topsoil.
The sod cutter is driven across the lawn in parallel lines, slicing the turf into long, manageable strips. Once cut, the strips can be rolled up and immediately removed from the site. Disposal options include hauling the sod away, composting it, or inverting and stacking it to decompose into future topsoil. While physically demanding and creating immediate waste, this method provides a clean slate for construction or planting within hours.
Chemical Removal Using Herbicides
Chemical removal involves applying a non-selective herbicide to kill the existing lawn foliage and roots in place. Formulas containing glyphosate are designed to kill nearly all plant material they contact by inhibiting an enzyme pathway necessary for plant growth. The chemical is absorbed through the leaves and translocated throughout the plant, reaching the roots to ensure complete death of the turf.
For maximum effectiveness, the herbicide must be applied when the grass is actively growing and the temperature is moderate (65°F to 85°F). Applying the product on a calm, dry day prevents accidental drift onto desirable neighboring plants. Personal protective equipment, including gloves and eye protection, is necessary during mixing and application.
After application, the area must remain undisturbed for at least seven days to allow the chemical to fully travel to the root system. Visible effects, such as browning, may take several days to appear, and cool or cloudy weather can slow this process. Following the waiting period, the dead grass can be tilled into the soil or removed, preparing the area for the next step.
Organic Smothering Techniques
Organic smothering provides a chemical-free alternative that utilizes materials to block light and suppress the lawn. This category includes solarization and sheet mulching. Both methods are slower than physical or chemical removal but are favored for their environmental benefits and potential to improve soil health.
Solarization
Solarization harnesses the sun’s heat to sterilize the top layer of soil, effectively killing grass and weed seeds. This process requires covering the area with clear plastic sheeting to trap solar radiation, creating temperatures up to 140°F in the top six inches of soil. Before covering, the soil should be moistened to a depth of about 12 inches, as wet soil conducts heat more efficiently.
The edges of the clear plastic must be tightly secured by burying them in a trench or weighing them down to ensure the heat is trapped. The process is most effective during the hottest part of summer, requiring four to eight weeks of intense heat exposure to kill the turf and pathogens. This extended period makes solarization a poor choice for projects requiring immediate ground access.
Sheet Mulching
Sheet mulching, sometimes called lasagna gardening, smothers the lawn by layering biodegradable materials. The process begins by mowing the grass as short as possible, followed by laying down a weed barrier of overlapping cardboard or newspaper to completely block sunlight. This barrier is then covered with several inches of organic materials, such as compost, straw, and wood chips.
The decomposition of the organic layers smothers the turf while simultaneously adding nutrients and attracting beneficial organisms. Since this method relies on decomposition, it requires a longer waiting period, often three to six months or more, before the area is ready for planting. The advantage is that the old lawn is converted directly into soil-improving organic matter, avoiding disposal.
Preparing the Soil for New Use
Once the existing lawn has been removed or decomposed, the soil requires a final preparation phase. The first step involves checking the area for any stubborn patches of roots or remaining turf remnants that may regrow. Any large rocks, debris, or deep-seated roots should be cleared from the area to ensure a smooth surface.
Leveling the ground is necessary, particularly if the area is intended for hardscaping or a new lawn, which require a consistent grade for drainage. After leveling, the soil should be amended based on the intended use. For a new garden bed, incorporate two to three inches of compost into the top six to eight inches of soil. This organic matter improves soil structure, aeration, and water retention.
If the soil is heavy clay or sandy, amendments should be blended evenly into the ground rather than simply layered on top. Finally, any necessary irrigation lines or drainage systems should be installed at this stage to avoid disturbing the newly prepared soil later. This thorough preparation ensures the foundation is stable and nutrient-rich for the subsequent project.