Removing a lawn entirely is a significant landscaping decision, often driven by the desire for reduced water use, less maintenance, or the creation of new garden spaces. Homeowners seeking to eliminate turfgrass have several effective methods available, ranging from labor-intensive mechanical removal to passive, non-chemical processes, and the targeted application of herbicides. The chosen technique depends heavily on the size of the area, the type of grass being removed, and the desired timeline. Understanding the steps from initial assessment to final soil preparation ensures the best foundation for the landscape’s new purpose.
Site Assessment and Initial Preparation
Before any removal begins, a thorough site assessment is necessary to prevent costly damage and inform the best strategy. The most important first step is contacting 811 to have all underground utility lines marked, which prevents accidental severing of utilities during digging or tilling. Identifying the specific type of grass is helpful, as tenacious varieties like Bermuda grass or St. Augustine grass may require more aggressive removal methods than common fescues.
A soil test should be conducted by collecting samples from 10 to 15 random spots across the area to a depth of three to six inches. This provides a chemical profile, identifying the soil’s pH and nutrient levels, allowing for targeted amendments later to suit the new plantings. Timing the project for the grass’s active growing season, typically spring or fall, maximizes the effectiveness of most removal techniques.
Mechanical and Manual Removal Techniques
Mechanical removal offers immediate results by physically lifting the sod and is well-suited for smaller areas or when immediate replanting is desired. A powered sod cutter, which can typically be rented, cuts the turf into manageable strips by slicing the roots just beneath the surface, often at a depth of about one inch. The area should be watered lightly a day or two before cutting to soften the soil, making the process easier.
The separated strips of sod can then be rolled up and removed, which completely eliminates the grass and a small layer of topsoil, preventing immediate regrowth. For small, targeted sections, manual removal with a sharp spade or shovel is an option, though it is more labor-intensive. This method requires digging deep enough to remove the grass’s entire root system, including any rhizomes or stolons, to ensure complete eradication.
Rototilling is fast and effective for breaking up compacted soil, but it brings dormant weed seeds to the surface where they can germinate. Tilling also chops up existing grass roots, which can sometimes lead to re-sprouting, especially with aggressive grass types. If tilling is used, it should be followed immediately by a smothering or chemical method to address the newly exposed weed seed bank.
Smothering and Solarization Methods
Non-chemical, passive methods like smothering and solarization use barriers to kill the grass, requiring patience and time. Sheet mulching, often called “lasagna layering,” involves mowing the grass as short as possible and then covering the area with a light-blocking layer, typically cardboard, with all tape and labels removed. The cardboard should be overlapped by at least six inches to prevent sunlight from reaching the grass below, and then thoroughly moistened.
A layer of four to six inches of organic material, such as compost or wood mulch, is spread over the cardboard to hold it in place and begin decomposition. This method smothers the grass by eliminating light for photosynthesis, taking three to five months for complete breakdown and grass death. The decaying organic matter also enriches the soil, leaving a healthy foundation for new planting without disturbing the soil structure.
Solarization utilizes clear plastic sheeting, two to six millimeters thick, to trap solar heat and “cook” the grass and weed seeds in the top few inches of soil. This technique is most effective during the hottest months of summer, aiming to raise the soil temperature to over 140 degrees Fahrenheit. The area must be watered thoroughly before the plastic is laid down and sealed tightly around the edges with soil to ensure maximum heat and moisture retention. The plastic should be left in place for four to eight weeks, depending on the climate, with longer periods providing better results against persistent weeds.
Chemical Eradication Options
Chemical eradication using non-selective herbicides offers a rapid and effective way to kill all existing vegetation, including the roots of perennial grasses. Non-selective products, like those containing glyphosate, are systemic, meaning the chemical is absorbed by the leaves and translocated throughout the plant, killing the entire root system.
Application must occur during the grass’s active growing season, typically when temperatures are between 65°F and 85°F, ensuring efficient absorption. Safety precautions include wearing personal protective equipment and avoiding spraying on windy days to prevent drift onto desirable plants. A dye can be added to the spray mix to easily track treated areas and ensure complete coverage.
The full effect may take seven to ten days to become visible, and it is recommended to wait at least 48 hours after application before watering to allow for maximum absorption. For dense or aggressive turf, a second application after about ten days is often necessary to eliminate missed spots. The product becomes inactive once it contacts the soil because it binds tightly to organic matter, meaning the area can be worked or planted relatively soon after the grass has died.
Soil Amendment and Final Grading
Once the grass is completely dead or physically removed, the focus shifts to preparing the soil for its new purpose. Sod removed by a cutter should be composted separately or disposed of, as the dense root mass takes a long time to break down. If the grass was killed in place with sheet mulching, the decaying matter is left to enrich the soil.
Regardless of the removal method, the area should be assessed for drainage, and any low spots or uneven areas need to be addressed before new material is added. The existing soil can be loosened with a tiller or broadfork if it is compacted, which improves water infiltration and root growth. Incorporating organic matter, such as compost, peat moss, or well-rotted manure, improves soil structure, especially in heavy clay or sandy soils.
Adding a layer of quality topsoil is an option to ensure a healthy base, particularly if the original soil quality was poor or significant topsoil was removed. The final step involves raking and leveling the surface to create a smooth grade that slopes away from any structures at a minimum of two percent, ensuring proper water drainage. This leveled, amended ground is now ready for its next phase, whether that is a new garden, hardscape, or drought-tolerant landscape.