The removal of a small tree, generally one with a trunk diameter of six to eight inches measured at chest height, is a manageable project for a prepared homeowner. This size range typically includes younger or ornamental trees that have not developed extensive root systems. While the task is within the scope of a determined do-it-yourselfer, it demands a methodical approach to ensure the tree falls safely and the leftover stump is thoroughly eliminated. The entire sequence, from initial site preparation to final landscape restoration, requires attention to detail and appropriate safety measures.
Site Assessment and Necessary Equipment
Before any cutting begins, a thorough site assessment is necessary to prevent property damage or injury. It is imperative to contact local utility companies to have any underground lines, such as gas, electric, or water, clearly marked, especially if the tree is near a structure. The area surrounding the tree must be cleared of all obstacles and debris to establish a safe work zone and ensure clear escape routes.
Personal protective equipment should include a helmet, safety goggles, and heavy-duty gloves. For felling, a sharp bow saw or a small, well-maintained chainsaw is required for the trunk cuts. Loppers and a handsaw are useful for removing lower branches before felling, and a wrecking bar or lever can assist with later stump removal.
Cutting Down the Trunk
The physical act of felling the trunk must be approached with precision to control the direction of the fall. First, determine the intended direction of fall, which should be away from structures and clear of hazards. Then, clear two separate escape paths at roughly 45-degree angles away from the fall direction. The safest technique involves creating a directional notch, also called an undercut, on the side of the tree facing the intended fall. This notch is made by cutting a wedge from the trunk, typically about one-third of the way through the trunk’s diameter.
The notch consists of a horizontal cut and a slanting cut that meets the horizontal cut to remove a wedge of wood. This directional cut guides the fall and prevents the trunk from splitting prematurely. Next, the felling cut, or back cut, is made horizontally on the opposite side of the trunk, positioned one to two inches above the horizontal line of the notch. This offset ensures that a hinge of wood remains intact between the back cut and the notch.
The hinge is a strip of wood that controls the tree’s descent, acting as a pivot to guide the trunk safely to the ground. The back cut should proceed until the tree begins to move, at which point the saw is immediately removed, and the operator retreats along one of the pre-planned escape routes. A felling wedge inserted into the back cut can help manage the pressure and safely push the tree over if it does not fall on its own. Once the tree is on the ground, the trunk can be cut into smaller sections, leaving a stump no more than six inches above the ground for easier removal.
Methods for Eliminating the Stump
Once the trunk is removed, the remaining stump requires elimination. The choice of method depends largely on the stump’s size and the desired speed of removal.
Manual Removal
For smaller stumps with a diameter under six inches, manual removal is often feasible. This involves digging around the stump with a sharp spade and mattock to expose the main lateral roots. These roots are then severed with an axe or a root saw. A lever can be used to pry the stump from the ground once the root system is isolated. This technique offers immediate, chemical-free results, but it is physically demanding and best suited for softwoods or very young trees.
Chemical Decomposition
Chemical methods are a low-effort alternative when time is not a constraining factor, as they accelerate natural decomposition. A stump remover product, often containing potassium nitrate, is poured into multiple deep holes drilled vertically into the stump’s surface and sides. The potassium nitrate encourages the growth of wood-decaying fungi and bacteria, significantly speeding up the natural microbial breakdown of the cellulose and lignin within the wood fibers. This process can take several weeks to many months, depending on the wood type and climate, but it eventually softens the wood to a spongy consistency that can be easily broken apart and removed.
Stump Grinding
The fastest and most efficient option is mechanical removal using a stump grinder, a powerful machine rented from a local equipment supplier. This method uses a rotating cutting wheel with carbide teeth to systematically grind the stump into wood chips, typically reducing the stump to four to twelve inches below the surface grade. Stump grinding is effective for larger or hardwood stumps, and the process generally takes only an hour or two. The localized nature of the grinding minimizes disturbance to the surrounding landscape.
Final Site Restoration
After the stump and major roots have been removed, the final stage involves cleaning the site and restoring the soil. Wood chips from grinding, or debris from manual removal, should be raked out of the hole and surrounding area. While these wood chips can be repurposed as garden mulch, they should not be used to fill the hole. Their decomposition process strips nitrogen from the surrounding soil, negatively impacting future growth.
The resulting depression must be filled with a mixture of fresh topsoil and organic matter, such as compost, to replenish the soil’s nutritional balance. A soil test may be beneficial to determine if amendments like agricultural lime are needed to adjust the pH level. The new soil should be lightly tamped down and mounded slightly to account for future settling and compaction. Once the area is level and enriched, it can be prepared for new planting or seeded with grass.