A keiki, which translates from Hawaiian as “baby” or “child,” is a small, genetically identical clone of the mother orchid that develops on the flower stem or cane. These plantlets form asexually, often at a node on the flower spike, providing an opportunity for growers to propagate their favorite orchid variety. Removing a keiki is common practice for increasing a collection and maintaining the health of the mother plant. If left attached too long, the developing keiki can drain substantial energy, compromising the vigor of the original orchid. Successful removal and subsequent potting requires careful timing and precise technique to ensure the clone’s survival.
Determining When a Keiki is Ready for Removal
Timing is the most important factor in successfully separating a keiki from its parent plant. Removing the young orchid too early significantly reduces its chances of survival, as it lacks the necessary infrastructure to sustain itself independently. A keiki is ready for detachment only after developing a sufficient root system and adequate foliage, which supports basic functions like water and nutrient absorption.
The most reliable gauge for readiness involves checking the root length and the leaf count. The keiki should have at least two or three mature, healthy leaves for photosynthesis. More importantly, the aerial roots should be a minimum of 1 to 3 inches long; this length provides enough root mass to anchor the plant and begin taking up moisture. Waiting until the roots reach this size guarantees the plantlet can establish itself quickly. Delaying removal risks the keiki drawing excessive energy from the mother plant, leading to stress or decline.
Step-by-Step Keiki Detachment
The detachment process must use sterile equipment to prevent introducing pathogens to the fresh wounds on both the mother plant and the keiki. Begin by sterilizing your cutting tool, such as a sharp razor blade or precision scissors, by wiping it down with rubbing alcohol or briefly passing the blade through a flame. Sterilization is essential because orchids are highly susceptible to fungal and bacterial infections at open cut sites.
Once the tool is prepared, identify the section of the flower spike connecting the keiki to the mother plant. The goal is to cut the old spike material, preserving the plantlet’s developing roots and stem, rather than the keiki’s base itself. Make a clean cut on the spike approximately 1/2 to 1 inch above and below the keiki. This leaves a small “collar” or stub of the original stem material attached, which provides a buffer against accidental damage during handling and potting.
After separation, immediate wound treatment is necessary for both the new plant and the mother orchid. Ground cinnamon powder is an effective natural fungicide for sealing the cuts. Gently dab the cinnamon directly onto the open wounds on the keiki’s stub and the remaining cut on the mother plant’s spike. This application quickly dries the exposed tissue and creates a barrier against airborne fungal spores and bacteria, preventing rot.
Essential Care for Newly Potted Keiki
The newly detached keiki requires a specialized environment to transition successfully from relying on the mother plant to independent growth. A small pot, typically 2 to 3 inches in diameter, is necessary to minimize the volume of potting medium around the tiny root system. This small size helps prevent the medium from staying saturated too long, which is a major cause of root rot in young orchids.
The choice of potting medium is crucial, with fine-grade orchid bark mix or sphagnum moss being the recommended options. Sphagnum moss is often preferred for keikis due to its high water-holding capacity, providing the consistent moisture tiny roots need. If using sphagnum moss, ensure it is pre-moistened before potting and gently packed around the roots to secure the keiki without crushing the new growth.
For the first few weeks, place the potted keiki in a location that provides bright, indirect light, avoiding harsh, direct sunlight that can scorch the tender leaves. Maintaining a warm temperature, ideally between 70°F and 80°F, and high humidity will further encourage root establishment. Initial watering should focus on keeping the medium consistently moist, but never soggy, to support the vulnerable roots as they acclimate to their new environment.