The crepe myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica) is a favored ornamental tree known for its vibrant summer flowers and attractive exfoliating bark. Its vigorous growth habit includes a tenacious root system and a strong propensity for producing new shoots, known as suckers. When a tree is cut down, the remaining stump and root network can become a persistent nuisance, often interfering with construction, creating tripping hazards, or simply detracting from the desired aesthetic of a garden space. Removing this woody remnant requires effort, so choosing the right method is important.
Manual Extraction of the Stump
Physically digging out a crepe myrtle stump is the most labor-intensive method of removal. This approach is best suited for smaller or recently felled trees where the root system has not spread extensively. The process begins by excavating the soil immediately surrounding the stump base using a pointed shovel, exposing the upper flare of the root structure and the major lateral roots. Digging should proceed until the upper two to three feet of the main structural roots are clearly visible.
Once exposed, the lateral roots must be severed to free the stump from its underground anchors. A mattock is useful for chopping through smaller roots, while a specialized root saw or a reciprocating saw with a wood-cutting blade is required for larger roots. Cut roots should be severed as far from the main stump as possible to minimize the chance of regrowth from remaining segments.
The goal is to isolate the main taproot and the surrounding network of feeder roots. With most lateral connections severed, a sturdy pry bar can be used to rock the stump and pull it upward out of the soil cavity. It is often necessary to cut the remaining taproot, which may extend several feet deep, before the stump can be completely lifted out. This manual technique ensures the complete removal of the woody material without relying on chemical agents or specialized machinery.
Using Chemical Treatments for Decomposition
When physical labor is not desirable, accelerating the natural decomposition of the crepe myrtle stump offers an alternative. This method involves introducing agents that stimulate decay, but it requires patience, often taking six months to a year or more. Preparation involves drilling multiple deep holes into the top surface of the stump, extending several inches down and angling slightly inward toward the center. Holes should be spaced three to four inches apart across the cross-section and be at least one inch in diameter.
Into these holes, a chemical stump remover, typically composed of potassium nitrate, is poured or packed according to the product’s directions. Potassium nitrate provides a nitrogen source that boosts the activity of decay-causing fungi and microorganisms in the wood structure. Alternatively, a concentrated herbicide containing glyphosate or triclopyr can be applied to kill remaining root tissues and prevent future sprouting before decomposition begins.
After application, the stump must be kept consistently moist to support the biological activity that breaks down the lignin and cellulose. Covering the treated stump with a plastic tarp or heavy mulch helps retain moisture and heat, creating an ideal environment for fungal growth. Over time, the stump will soften and crumble, making it easy to break apart and remove the remnants with a shovel.
Mechanical Stump Grinding
Mechanical stump grinding is the fastest and most efficient method for eliminating a crepe myrtle stump, especially for larger specimens or when immediate removal is required. This process uses a specialized machine featuring a large, rotating cutting wheel equipped with carbide-tipped teeth that chip away at the wood. Homeowners can rent a walk-behind grinder for smaller jobs or hire a professional service that employs larger, more powerful machines capable of handling deep roots.
Before operating the grinder, the area must be prepared to prevent damage or injury. This involves removing any rocks, metal debris, or surface roots that might interfere with the cutting wheel’s path. Safety gear is mandatory due to the high-speed debris and noise generated:
- Safety glasses.
- Hearing protection.
- Gloves.
The grinder’s cutting wheel is maneuvered back and forth across the stump face, shaving off wood chips with each pass.
The operator must grind the stump well below ground level, typically aiming for a depth of four to twelve inches beneath the surrounding soil line. Grinding to this depth ensures the main root flare is destroyed, minimizing the potential for future suckering. Once the stump is reduced to below-grade chips, the resulting depression is filled with the wood chips and then topped with soil. These wood chips can be spread as mulch, composted, or left to decompose in the hole.
Preventing Suckers and Root System Regrowth
Even after the main stump is removed, the remaining peripheral roots of the crepe myrtle can still send up new growth, known as suckers. This tendency requires ongoing management. Applying a concentrated herbicide to any freshly cut root surfaces exposed during manual or mechanical removal is an effective preventative measure. Applying a product containing triclopyr or glyphosate directly to the vascular tissue of the remaining roots inhibits the plant’s ability to sprout new shoots.
Long-term monitoring of the removal area is necessary for several growing seasons. Any new shoots that emerge should be addressed immediately to prevent the root system from regaining vigor. Simply mowing over suckers or pulling them out is often insufficient, as this can stimulate further sprouting from the severed roots below the surface. Instead, concentrated herbicide should be carefully applied directly to the foliage or the cut stem of the emerging sucker, ensuring the chemical is translocated down into the persistent root network.