The ornamental shrub, Euonymus alatus, widely known as Burning Bush, is often targeted for removal because it is classified as an invasive species across many regions of the United States. Native to Asia, this shrub was introduced for its vibrant, fiery red fall foliage, but its hardiness allows it to escape cultivation and thrive in natural areas. The plant’s ability to leaf out earlier and retain leaves later than native species gives it a competitive advantage. This allows it to shade out and aggressively displace desirable understory plants. Furthermore, a single mature shrub produces thousands of berries, which birds consume and widely disperse, allowing the plant to rapidly colonize forests and form dense thickets.
Planning the Removal: Timing and Necessary Supplies
Successful removal requires careful preparation, including selecting the optimal time and gathering necessary tools. For manual removal, the best time to dig is when the soil is moist, such as after heavy rain or during early spring or late fall. Moist soil makes pulling the root system significantly easier. If using chemical treatment, application is effective year-round, but fall is preferred. During fall, the plant actively moves resources to its roots, drawing the herbicide down as well.
Preparing for both manual and chemical methods requires specific supplies to ensure safety and efficiency. Use heavy-duty gloves and safety goggles to protect your hands and eyes from cuts and chemicals. For cutting the shrub, you will need loppers or a hand saw to cut the trunk close to the ground. Manual extraction of larger plants requires a sturdy shovel, a mattock, or a weed wrench for leverage. If choosing the chemical method, ensure you have the appropriate herbicide, an applicator (sprayer or brush), and a dye to mark treated stumps.
Complete Manual Extraction Methods
The non-chemical approach focuses on the complete removal of the root system to prevent the plant from re-sprouting. For small seedlings, generally under two feet tall, hand-pulling is highly effective, especially when the soil is loose and damp. Grasp the plant at the base and pull firmly to ensure the entire root is extracted, as remaining fragments can produce new shoots.
For larger, established shrubs, first reduce the above-ground mass to make the root crown accessible. Use loppers or a saw to cut all stems down to about six inches above the soil line. Once the stems are cut, remove the root ball using a shovel or a weed wrench to pry it from the ground. Since Burning Bush can reproduce from suckers, carefully sift through the disturbed soil with a garden fork to remove any remaining root fragments.
Proper disposal of the removed plant material is essential to prevent further spread of the invasive shrub. If the plant has produced berries, the seed-bearing branches should be immediately bagged in thick, black plastic and left in the sun to destroy seed viability. Do not leave pulled or cut plant material in contact with the ground, as the stems tend to re-root. The material should instead be dried out completely, chipped, or disposed of according to local regulations for noxious weeds.
Targeted Herbicide Application for Stubborn Shrubs
For mature, large, or multi-stemmed shrubs where manual digging is impractical, a highly targeted herbicide application is the most efficient method for eradication. The preferred technique is the “cut-stump treatment,” which delivers a systemic herbicide directly into the plant’s vascular system, killing the root structure. This process involves cutting the stems horizontally as close to the ground as possible before applying the chemical.
Apply the herbicide immediately after the cut, ideally within five to ten minutes, especially when using water-soluble products like glyphosate. If the cut surface dries, the plant’s natural defense mechanisms seal the vascular tissue, preventing the herbicide from being adequately absorbed and translocated to the roots. The chemical should be painted or sprayed only onto the outer ring of the stump, known as the cambium layer. This is the actively growing tissue responsible for transporting nutrients and the chemical downward.
Systemic herbicides containing glyphosate or triclopyr are the most effective choices for this treatment. Glyphosate is commonly used in a 20 to 50 percent concentration, while triclopyr is often used in a 15 to 20 percent solution, frequently mixed with an oil carrier for better penetration. An alternative for smaller, intact stems is the basal bark treatment, which involves applying an oil-based triclopyr solution to the entire circumference of the lower 12 to 18 inches of the trunk. Always follow the label instructions precisely for mixing ratios and application safety, taking care to prevent runoff or drift onto nearby desirable plants.
Monitoring the Area and Preventing Regrowth
Removal of the main shrub usually requires multi-season follow-up to ensure complete eradication, as Burning Bush is tenacious. The primary concern is regrowth from root fragments missed during manual extraction or new shoots emerging from the treated stump. It is also likely that a “seed shadow” of dormant seeds exists in the soil, ready to germinate once the canopy is removed.
Monitor the removal site for at least two to three growing seasons, inspecting the area frequently for signs of new growth. New seedlings are easily managed by hand-pulling, which is the most effective method before they establish a deep root system. Any persistent root sprouts or suckers emerging from the soil or the stump must be dealt with promptly to exhaust the root system’s stored energy. These sprouts can be repeatedly cut back to the ground, or they can be spot-treated with a small, carefully applied dose of a systemic herbicide.
The final step in preventing re-establishment is to replant the area with competitive native shrubs or groundcovers. This strategic planting fills the vacant space and reduces the light and resources available to any newly germinating Burning Bush seeds, completing the long-term control effort.