The orchid, with its striking symmetry and long-lasting flowers, represents a pinnacle of the houseplant world. A spent or damaged stem, technically a flower spike, does not signal the end of the plant’s flowering cycle, but rather an opportunity for intervention. Understanding the difference between orchid stem types and applying precise techniques can successfully prompt the plant to produce either a secondary flush of blooms or a new miniature plantlet. This guide focuses on methods for reblooming and propagation.
Determining Which Stem Can Be Revived
The term “stem” refers to two distinct structures, and knowing the difference dictates the appropriate revival method. The Phalaenopsis (Moth Orchid) produces a flower spike—a long, smooth stalk that bears the flowers. This spike is the primary target for encouraging secondary blooms or new plantlets. Other orchids, such as Dendrobium or Cattleya varieties, produce thick, cane-like structures called pseudobulbs or canes. These pseudobulbs are primarily storage organs, and cutting them is typically reserved for propagation. When assessing any structure, look for a green, firm appearance. Brown, shriveled, or yellowing tissue is dead and cannot be revived, and should be removed completely.
Cutting Techniques for Secondary Blooms
Encouraging secondary blooms redirects the plant’s energy to a dormant bud on the existing flower spike, a method almost exclusively performed on healthy Phalaenopsis orchids. This technique is best applied immediately after the last flower has dropped, before the spike begins to yellow and die back. Sterilizing your cutting tool, such as a razor blade or sharp shears, with rubbing alcohol is paramount to prevent transmitting viruses or bacterial infections to the plant.
The flower spike contains several dormant nodes, which appear as small, triangular bumps covered by a thin, papery sheath. These nodes contain meristematic cells that can develop into either a new flower branch or a plantlet. To maximize the chance of a rebloom, locate the second or third node from the base of the plant, counting upward. Make a clean, horizontal cut about one-half to one inch above the chosen node, ensuring the remaining spike section is green and firm.
Leaving a portion of the spike with dormant nodes allows the orchid to quickly produce a new flower branch without expending the energy required to grow an entirely new spike. While this method yields faster blooms, the subsequent flower display is often smaller than the original. If the plant appears weak or stressed, cutting the entire spike off at the base is a better choice, allowing the plant to focus its energy on vegetative recovery.
Propagating New Plants Using Growth Hormones
A distinct alternative to forcing new flowers is encouraging the growth of a keiki, the Hawaiian word for “baby,” which refers to a genetically identical miniature plantlet that forms on the stem. This propagation method is initiated by applying a specialized cytokinin paste (often called keiki paste) to the dormant nodes of the flower spike. Cytokinin is a plant growth hormone that promotes cell division and shoot formation, effectively overriding the plant’s natural tendency to produce flowers at that node.
To apply the paste, gently peel back the thin, protective papery sheath covering a dormant node using a sterile tool, exposing the tiny green bud beneath. A small, pea-sized amount of the lanolin-based paste is then dabbed directly onto the exposed bud. The lanolin carrier helps the hormone adhere to the tissue and prevents it from washing away during watering.
This technique is effective on Phalaenopsis flower spikes and can also be used on the nodes of Dendrobium canes to produce new vegetative offsets. Successful keiki formation relies on maintaining a slightly warmer, more humid environment to activate the hormonal response. Once the keiki develops at least three roots that are two to three inches long, it can be carefully removed and potted as an independent plant.
Maintaining the Ideal Environment for Recovery
Regardless of whether the goal is a secondary bloom or a keiki, the orchid requires consistent, optimized environmental conditions to support regrowth. Light is a primary factor; the plant should be situated in a location that receives bright, indirect light for several hours each day. Direct, harsh sunlight can scorch the leaves and inhibit growth emerging from the nodes.
Maintaining adequate humidity is important for activating dormant buds and encouraging keiki growth, with levels ideally ranging between 50% and 70%. Placing the orchid on a humidity tray filled with pebbles and water, ensuring the pot does not sit directly in the water, can help elevate the moisture surrounding the plant. Watering practices should remain consistent, allowing the potting medium to almost dry out between applications, but avoiding complete desiccation.
The temperature should be kept within a comfortable range, typically 70°F to 80°F during the day, with a slight drop at night. Providing a balanced, highly diluted orchid fertilizer is beneficial, as the plant needs a steady supply of nutrients to fuel the new cell production. A fertilizer with a slightly higher nitrogen content is often recommended when encouraging vegetative growth, like a keiki, while a higher phosphorus ratio can encourage a faster rebloom.