Bamboo screening is typically sold as a rolled material made of natural canes held together with galvanized wire. This decorative facade requires a robust framework to stand upright and withstand environmental forces. When a property lacks an existing fence, wall, or other substantial structure, the challenge is constructing a new, stable support system first. This framework is necessary to ensure the final result is secure and long-lasting. The fundamental decision involves determining the permanence and load-bearing capacity of this new underlying support.
Selecting the Right Support System
The choice of support structure should be dictated by the desired height, the length of the screen, and the local wind exposure. Permanent installations are mandatory for screens exceeding approximately 5 feet in height, or for any lengthy installation in an area subject to moderate to high winds. These permanent solutions require materials like pressure-treated wooden posts or heavy-gauge metal poles that are set deep into the ground using concrete.
For shorter screens or those meant to be temporary, non-invasive solutions offer flexibility and simpler installation. These options include systems like metal ground spikes, heavy-duty post augers, or freestanding planters filled with ballast. The primary trade-off is stability; temporary supports are generally less capable of resisting the significant wind load that a solid bamboo screen presents. Since bamboo screening acts as a sail, blocking air rather than letting it pass through, a sturdier structure is necessary for windy locations.
Constructing the Permanent Post Foundation
Installing a permanent foundation begins with selecting appropriate lumber, typically 4×4-inch pressure-treated posts, which offer a good balance of strength and cost. The posts must be spaced strategically along the intended screen line, ideally every 6 to 8 feet, to prevent the screening material from sagging between supports. Proper post depth is paramount for stability, requiring the post hole to be approximately one-third the length of the exposed post, plus an additional 6 inches for gravel drainage.
For a standard 6-foot-tall screen, this means a 9-foot post is needed, with the hole dug at least 3 feet deep. The width of the hole should be two to three times the post’s diameter, allowing sufficient space for a substantial concrete collar. Once the post is placed in the hole, a small layer of gravel should be added beneath it to facilitate water drainage and prevent premature rot.
The post must be held perfectly plumb, or vertically aligned, using temporary bracing while the concrete is poured. Concrete mix is poured into the hole around the post, extending up to the ground level. As the concrete cures, it chemically bonds with the soil and the post, forming a foundation that resists lateral forces from wind and pressure. Allow the concrete to fully cure, which can take 24 to 72 hours depending on the product and weather, before attaching any screening material.
Non-Invasive and Temporary Support Solutions
For situations where digging and pouring concrete are impractical, such as on rented property or a paved patio, non-invasive alternatives provide structural support. One common technique uses heavy-duty ground spikes, which are hammered into the soil and feature a sleeve to hold the post above ground level. These spikes are limited to shorter screens and locations with well-compacted soil, as they rely solely on the friction between the spike and the earth for stability.
Another robust, no-dig option involves using large, freestanding planter boxes or troughs as a base. The vertical posts are secured inside these containers, which are then filled with heavy aggregate, such as gravel, concrete blocks, or sand, acting as ballast. This mass provides the necessary counterweight to resist the screen’s wind load, but the structure must be designed with a wide base to prevent tipping.
For smaller areas or balconies, a tension cable system can be employed between two existing, solid anchor points, such as house walls or deck railings. Heavy-gauge, galvanized wire is run horizontally at the top, middle, and bottom of the screen area, pulled taut using turnbuckles. The bamboo screening is then attached directly to these taut wires, distributing the load across the entire span without requiring vertical posts anchored in the ground.
Attaching and Finishing the Bamboo Screening
Once the support structure is stable, the bamboo screening roll can be positioned and attached. Unroll the screen gradually, aligning the top edge consistently with the support posts or the top horizontal wire. The material must be pulled taut both vertically and horizontally to eliminate slack that could lead to sagging or fluttering.
The most secure method of attachment is using heavy-duty, UV-resistant zip ties or galvanized wire wraps, securing the screening to the support posts every 12 to 18 inches vertically. It is important to thread the ties or wire around the internal galvanized wires that hold the bamboo canes together, rather than attempting to staple or screw directly through the individual canes, which can cause splitting. For wooden posts, small U-nails or galvanized screws with washers can also be used to fasten the screen securely.
After attachment, any excess bamboo can be carefully trimmed to fit the support structure’s dimensions. Cutting the screening involves snipping the internal galvanized wires between the canes at the desired point and then tying off the remaining wire ends to prevent unraveling. A final inspection confirms that all attachment points are tight and the screen is level.