Spanish lavender (Lavandula stoechas) is prized for its aromatic foliage and unique flower structure. Unlike other lavenders, this variety produces plump flower spikes topped with showy, colorful bracts that resemble butterfly wings. These striking blooms appear throughout the season, making the plant a focal point in any garden. Regular, correct pruning maintains the plant’s compact, shrub-like form and encourages maximum flowering. Without annual cutting back, the plant quickly becomes leggy and woody, resulting in sparse flowering and a shorter lifespan.
Understanding the Pruning Schedule
The pruning schedule is dictated by the plant’s multiple bloom cycles, involving a major spring shaping and subsequent deadheading.
The most substantial cut occurs in early spring, just after the threat of hard frost has passed and before new growth begins. This initial pruning removes winter-damaged stems and establishes the plant’s overall shape. This encourages the plant to branch out, leading to a denser, fuller appearance.
Deadheading is the second, more frequent type of pruning, starting after the first wave of flowers fades in late spring or early summer. Removing spent blooms stops the plant from putting energy into seed production. By clearing old flower stalks, the plant is signaled to focus resources on producing new shoots and subsequent flushes of blooms. A final, light shaping can be performed in late summer or early autumn to tidy the plant after its last major bloom cycle.
Complete all major cuts at least six weeks before your region’s expected first hard frost. Pruning too late in the autumn stimulates tender new growth that is highly susceptible to winter damage. This late growth can compromise the plant’s health for the following season.
Essential Pruning Techniques
Proper pruning requires clean, sharp bypass pruners or shears to ensure a precise cut and prevent disease. A clean cut heals faster, reducing stress and allowing the plant to divert energy toward new growth and flower production.
For the major shaping cut in early spring, reduce the overall size by approximately one-third of the green, leafy growth. This reduction encourages the lower parts of the plant to branch more vigorously.
Aim to maintain a rounded, mounded shape when making shaping cuts. Each cut should be made just above a set of leaves or a small bud, known as a node. Cutting above a node ensures the remaining stem segment has an active growing point from which new foliage and blooms can emerge. This technique stimulates widespread new growth across the entire canopy.
Deadheading is a lighter technique aimed solely at removing spent flower stalks throughout the season. Trace the stem of the faded flower spike down to the first set of healthy leaves. Make the cut precisely above this leaf set, removing the entire spent flower and a short length of the stem. This continuous removal sustains the Spanish lavender’s capacity for repeat flowering.
Aftercare and Avoiding Damage
The most important rule is the avoidance of cutting into the old, brown, woody growth at the base of the plant. Spanish lavender does not reliably regenerate new growth from old wood. Cutting severely into the leafless woody section will cause that part of the plant to stop growing entirely and potentially die. Therefore, all pruning cuts must be restricted to the soft, green, leafy growth from the current or previous year.
After a major shaping cut in the spring, the plant benefits from a light watering to help it recover and support new growth. Spanish lavender is adapted to dry, poor soil conditions and requires minimal supplemental nutrients. Avoid applying fertilizer, as this can lead to excessive foliage growth at the expense of flower production, resulting in a “leggy” plant.
Between the main pruning periods, maintenance involves continuous, light deadheading. Consistent removal of fading flower spikes prevents the plant from wasting energy on seed development. This strategy maximizes flowering and prevents the need for drastic cuts later in the season.