Pruning supports the long-term health and structure of trees. Removing dead branches, often called ‘deadwooding,’ eliminates limbs that no longer serve a purpose. These non-living sections pose a safety hazard because they are brittle and prone to breaking unexpectedly during strong winds or storms. Furthermore, dead branches can become breeding grounds for wood-boring insects or entry points for fungal diseases, spreading decay into healthy tissue. Removing this material improves the tree’s overall vigor and reduces the risk of structural failure.
Identifying and Locating Dead Wood
Determining if a branch is truly dead requires checking physical characteristics, especially during the growing season. The most obvious sign is a complete lack of leaves or buds when the rest of the tree is actively growing. A dead limb will also feel noticeably dry and brittle, often snapping cleanly when bent, unlike a living branch which retains flexibility.
The “scratch test” is a definitive method where a small piece of the outer bark is gently scraped away. If the layer beneath the bark (the cambium) is bright green, the wood is alive and should not be removed. If the exposed layer is dull brown or gray, the branch is confirmed dead. Deadwood also frequently shows signs of decay, such as peeling bark, a shriveled appearance, or fungal growths like conks.
Essential Tools and Safety Preparation
Selecting the correct instrument ensures a clean cut and prevents unnecessary damage. For small branches up to three-quarters of an inch in diameter, sharp bypass hand pruners are appropriate. Branches between three-quarters of an inch and about one and a half inches can be managed with long-handled loppers. Any limb larger than one and a half inches requires a pruning saw, such as a curved hand saw or a folding saw. For high deadwood still within reach, a pole pruner or pole saw allows the work to be done safely from the ground. Always wear personal protective equipment, including work gloves and safety glasses.
Working with deadwood, particularly high up, requires careful attention to safety protocols. Never attempt to cut a large limb while standing on a ladder, as the shifting weight of the falling branch can easily cause a serious fall. If the dead branch is large, heavy, or located in an awkward position, consulting with a professional arborist is the safest course of action.
The Correct Technique for Removing Dead Branches
The technique used depends on the branch size, but all pruning cuts must respect the tree’s natural defense mechanisms. Small branches can be removed with a single, clean cut made back to their point of origin, such as the trunk or a healthy lateral branch. This cut must not leave a stub, which would impede the tree’s ability to seal the wound properly.
Removing larger branches requires the three-cut technique, which prevents the bark from tearing down the trunk as the heavy limb falls. The process begins with the first cut, an undercut made on the branch’s underside about six to twelve inches away from the trunk. This cut should go about one-third of the way through the wood to create a barrier that stops the bark from peeling.
The second cut is made from the top of the branch, a few inches further out from the undercut, continuing until the weight of the branch causes it to break cleanly away. Once the bulk of the branch is removed, only a short stub remains for the final, most important cut. The purpose of the first two cuts is solely to reduce the weight, allowing a precise third cut without the risk of bark stripping.
The final cut must be placed with reference to two specific structures: the branch collar and the branch bark ridge. The branch collar is the slightly swollen, raised ring of tissue found at the base of the branch where it connects to the trunk. This collar contains specialized cells responsible for forming a protective callus, which seals off the wound through compartmentalization. The branch bark ridge is a raised line of bark running down the top side of the crotch between the branch and the trunk.
The final cut should begin just outside the branch bark ridge and angle down and away, concluding just outside the branch collar. This technique ensures that the entire collar tissue remains intact to facilitate the fastest possible wound closure and prevent the entry of decay-causing organisms.
Avoid making a “flush cut,” which removes the branch collar entirely, or leaving a long stub, which the tree cannot effectively seal. After the cut is made, the exposed wood should be left alone. Modern arboriculture advises against using wound dressings or pruning sealants. These products can potentially trap moisture and pathogens, inhibiting the tree’s natural defense response.