How to Prune a Split Leaf Philodendron

The name Split Leaf Philodendron commonly refers to two large, tropical aroids grown as houseplants: the vining Monstera deliciosa and the self-heading Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum (formerly Philodendron selloum). Both species require similar maintenance to manage their size and health indoors. This guide provides practical instruction on how to prune these plants safely and effectively, ensuring they remain robust and well-shaped.

Preparing for Pruning

Before pruning, gather sharp bypass pruners or shears. Dull blades crush plant tissue, making the stem vulnerable to infection. Sterilize the cutting tool with rubbing alcohol before and after use to prevent spreading fungal or bacterial diseases.

The ideal time for significant pruning is late winter or early spring, just before the plant’s active growth phase. This timing allows the plant to quickly recover by pushing out new foliage. Light maintenance pruning, such as removing a single yellow leaf, can be performed year-round as needed. Never remove more than one-third of the total foliage at one time, as this can cause significant shock.

Maintenance Pruning for Plant Health

Maintenance pruning removes unhealthy or damaged foliage, promoting better air circulation and redirecting energy toward new growth. Regularly inspect the plant for leaves that are yellowing, turning brown, or withered. Older leaves at the base of the plant often die back naturally as the plant matures and are primary targets for removal.

To remove these non-productive leaves, trace the leaf stem (petiole) back to where it attaches to the main trunk or stem. Make a clean cut as close to the main structure as possible, avoiding the collar where the leaf joins the stem. This technique prevents leaving behind unsightly stubs that can decay and encourages the plant to quickly seal the wound. Removing dead material keeps the plant clean and reduces the risk of pests or disease establishment.

Structural Pruning for Size Reduction

Structural pruning is necessary when the plant is too large or has developed a “leggy” appearance with long, bare stems. To reduce the overall height or width of the plant, you must locate a node along the stem. A node is a slightly swollen area where an aerial root, a leaf, or a new growth bud has emerged or is dormant.

Cutting at the Node

The node is the only reliable place to cut if you want the stem to branch or continue growing, as it is genetically programmed to initiate new growth. Make your cut approximately one-half inch above a healthy node to encourage new growth to sprout from the remaining stem. Cutting too far above the node leaves an unnecessary stub that may die back. This cut removes apical dominance, promoting a bushier growth habit.

Managing Height and Aerial Roots

For significant height reduction on Monstera, the main stem can be severed, which is the most aggressive form of pruning. The management of aerial roots is also a part of structural pruning, but these roots should not be aggressively removed. Aerial roots absorb moisture and nutrients from the air and provide support. Only trim aerial roots minimally for aesthetic reasons if they interfere with foot traffic or are exceptionally long. Shortening the stem at a node reduces the distance between leaves, leading to a more compact and balanced appearance.

Post-Pruning Care and Cuttings

Following aggressive structural pruning, the plant’s watering needs temporarily decrease because it has fewer leaves to support transpiration. Monitor the soil and allow the top few inches to dry out more thoroughly than usual before watering again to prevent potential root issues.

After large cuts, the plant may exude a milky white sap, a natural defense mechanism that can be irritating to the skin. This sap should be gently wiped away with a damp cloth, and it is advisable to wear gloves during pruning to protect your hands.

The healthy stem material removed can be used for propagation to create new plants. Cuttings must contain at least one node, as this is where new root growth will initiate. Place cuttings directly into a jar of water or plant them into moist, well-draining soil to establish a separate, viable plant.