The fiddle leaf fig, or Ficus lyrata, is a popular houseplant known for its large, violin-shaped leaves and tendency to grow as a single, straight stalk. This tall, unbranched growth habit is the result of a natural phenomenon called apical dominance, where a growth-regulating hormone called auxin is concentrated at the plant’s main growing tip, or apical bud. This high concentration of auxin suppresses the development of lateral, or side, buds along the stem, causing the plant to prioritize vertical height over a bushy form. The goal of pruning is to interrupt this hormonal signal, forcing the plant to activate those dormant side buds and develop the lateral branches that create a fuller, tree-like canopy.
When to Prune and Necessary Tools
The optimal time to prune your fiddle leaf fig is during its period of active growth, generally late spring through early summer. Pruning at this time allows the plant to use the increased light and warmth to quickly heal the wound and channel energy into pushing out new lateral branches. Avoid major pruning during winter months, when the plant is semi-dormant, as it lacks the energy reserves to recover effectively, increasing the risk of stress or disease.
When preparing to prune, use sharp, clean bypass pruning shears or a sturdy knife. A sharp edge ensures a quick, neat cut that minimizes damage and promotes successful healing. Sterilize the cutting surface with rubbing alcohol or a 10% bleach solution before and after use to prevent the transfer of plant pathogens. Keep a clean cloth ready to wipe away the milky white latex sap that will ooze from the cut, as this sap can be a mild irritant and is toxic to pets.
Making the Pruning Cut to Encourage Branching
Pruning for branching requires removing the terminal bud to disrupt the flow of auxin. Once the source of the hormone is gone, its concentration drops, allowing the dormant buds lower down the stem to activate and emerge as new growth points.
First, identify the exact height where you want the new branching to begin. New branches will emerge from the nodes just below your cut. A node is the slightly raised point on the stem where a leaf was attached, and this is where the dormant buds reside. Select a node positioned just below your desired branching height.
Use your sterilized shears or knife to make a clean, angled cut on the main trunk, positioned approximately one-half inch above the chosen leaf node. The slight angle helps water run off the wound, preventing moisture from pooling and encouraging faster healing. Pruning the main trunk for height reduction is the most reliable method for achieving significant lateral growth and a tree-like shape.
For minor shaping or encouraging branching on an existing side branch, the technique remains the same, but the effect will be localized to that specific branch.
Post-Pruning Care and Monitoring New Growth
Immediate care focuses on protecting the wound and supporting recovery. The cut area will exude a white, sticky latex sap; wipe this away gently but do not attempt to stop the flow completely.
To stimulate new growth, ensure the plant receives significantly more light than it did before the prune. Increased light exposure provides the energy required to push out new branches and leaves. You may also need to temporarily reduce watering frequency since the plant has fewer leaves to transpire moisture, but the soil should never completely dry out.
New growth typically manifests as small, reddish-green buds emerging from the nodes closest to the cut, usually beginning within four to six weeks. If you want to encourage branching further down the trunk without removing the entire top section, use a supplementary technique called “notching.” Notching involves making a small, shallow, horizontal cut one-third of the way into the stem just above a dormant node. This mimics pruning by disrupting the localized flow of auxin and encourages a branch to sprout lower down.