The Fiddle-Leaf Fig, scientifically known as Ficus lyrata, has become an extremely popular houseplant recognized for its large, dramatic, violin-shaped leaves. While beautiful, this plant has a natural tendency to grow straight upward, often leading to a tall, bare trunk with foliage concentrated only at the top. Pruning is a necessary horticultural practice that redirects the plant’s energy, maintaining its overall health and allowing a gardener to control its height while stimulating the lateral, bushier growth that creates a fuller, more balanced appearance.
Preparing for the Pruning Process
The most effective time to prune a Fiddle-Leaf Fig is during its active growing season, which typically occurs in late winter or early spring. Pruning during this period ensures the plant has sufficient energy to quickly heal the wounds and generate new growth. Attempting to prune during the plant’s dormant phase in fall or winter can leave open wounds that struggle to heal, increasing the risk of infection and stress.
Before making any cuts, gather the appropriate tools, including sharp pruning shears or loppers for thicker stems. Tool sterilization is essential to prevent the transmission of bacteria or fungal diseases to the open wounds on your plant. Sterilize the cutting blades using a solution of rubbing alcohol or a diluted bleach mixture before and after each pruning session.
Wear protective gloves, as the Ficus lyrata produces a milky sap, known as latex, which can be irritating to the skin. This sap will weep from fresh cuts and must be handled carefully. Have a clean cloth or paper towel nearby to wipe away the sap, preventing it from dripping onto the lower leaves or the floor.
Pruning Techniques for Growth and Shape
Initial cuts should focus on health, removing any damaged, discolored, or diseased leaves or branches. Make these cuts cleanly at the base of the leaf stem, allowing the plant to focus resources on its healthy foliage. Do not remove more than 20% of the total foliage in a single session to avoid causing severe shock.
Topping reduces the plant’s height and encourages branching lower on the main trunk. This involves cutting the main vertical stem just above a leaf node—the slightly raised point where a leaf grows or once grew. Cutting here disrupts the downward flow of auxin, a hormone that suppresses lateral bud growth, activating the dormant buds below the cut to sprout new branches.
Notching stimulates new growth at a specific point without reducing the plant’s overall height. It involves making a shallow, horizontal or V-shaped incision into the stem, approximately one-third of the way through the diameter, directly above a dormant node. This cut creates a localized interruption in the auxin flow, signaling the specific bud below the cut to activate and develop into a new branch.
Post-Pruning Care and Propagation
Immediately following a cut, the milky latex sap will weep from the wound. Gently dab the sap away with a clean cloth, but do not aggressively rub the area, as the plant will naturally form a protective seal. The plant’s energy will then be directed toward healing the cut and activating new growth buds.
After pruning, the plant requires a brief recovery period. Temporarily reduce the frequency of watering and hold off on applying fertilizer. Overwatering a recently pruned plant increases the risk of root issues, as it utilizes less water for transpiration. Wait until new growth appears before resuming the regular fertilization schedule.
Removed stem sections can be used to create new plants through propagation. Cuttings that include at least one leaf and a node can be placed directly into water or moist, well-draining soil. Submerging the node encourages the formation of new roots, often hastened by dipping the cut end in rooting hormone powder before planting.