Watering indoor hanging plants is challenging because their elevated position complicates checking the soil and managing runoff. Unlike floor-level containers, reaching the pot requires extra effort, and excess water can easily create a mess or damage furniture below. Mastering the proper technique ensures the entire root ball receives adequate moisture while preventing the common pitfall of waterlogging. This guide provides practical methods to determine when your plant needs water and how to water it effectively.
Assessing When to Water
The most reliable way to check a plant’s water needs is the “finger test” to feel the moisture content deep within the pot. Insert your index finger one to two inches into the soil, or up to the first knuckle. If the soil feels dry, crumbly, and does not stick to your skin, it is time to water. If it feels cool and moist, wait a few days before checking again.
A secondary method involves performing a weight test. Lift the pot immediately after a thorough watering to establish a baseline for its saturated weight. As the plant transpires and the soil dries out, the pot will become noticeably lighter, signaling the need for water. Visual cues also offer a clue, as wilting or drooping leaves are a common sign of thirst. Additionally, when soil becomes excessively dry, it can shrink and pull away from the edges of the pot, creating small gaps.
Physical Watering Techniques
The choice of watering technique depends on the plant’s accessibility and the soil’s current dryness.
Overhead Watering
For easily accessible plants that are not severely dried out, overhead watering is the most straightforward method. Use a watering can with a long, thin spout to distribute water evenly across the soil surface, avoiding the foliage. Pour slowly and continue until water begins to exit the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. This process ensures the water permeates all the potting medium, fully saturating the root ball rather than just the top layer.
Soaking Method
When a hanging plant has been neglected or is potted in a material like terracotta that dries out quickly, the soil can become hydrophobic. This causes water to run straight through without being absorbed. In this case, the soaking method is required. Take the plant down and submerge the pot in a sink or bucket filled with water. Allow the pot to sit for ten to sixty minutes, letting the soil absorb moisture from the bottom up via capillary action. The process is complete when the top layer of soil appears visibly moist, confirming the entire medium is hydrated. This technique is highly effective for rehydrating extremely dry soil.
Managing Drainage and Runoff
The primary challenge of watering hanging plants indoors is controlling the excess water that drains through the pot. Always use a pot with functional drainage holes. Preventing root rot is essential, which is caused when roots sit in stagnant water and are deprived of oxygen. Therefore, never allow the plant to remain in standing water for more than a few hours.
If using a decorative cachepot or a saucer underneath the growing pot, it must be emptied within fifteen to thirty minutes after watering. This prevents the roots from drowning, as waterlogged soil suffocates the root system. If the soaking method was used, let the plant drip thoroughly over a sink or tub for at least fifteen to thirty minutes before re-hanging it. This ensures all free-draining water has escaped and prevents unexpected leakage onto floors or furniture.
Self-watering containers, including wick systems, minimize direct runoff management. These pots feature a reservoir below the soil, using a wick to draw water up into the soil via capillary action. While this simplifies the routine and reduces mess, strictly follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Often, this means only adding water to the reservoir and avoiding top-watering to maintain the system’s balance.