Caring for an orchid may seem complex, but the reputation for difficulty is often overstated. These tropical plants, particularly the common Phalaenopsis (moth orchid), are adaptable to indoor environments once their specific needs are met. Orchids are not typical potted plants and require a different approach to light, water, and potting media. This guide focuses on proper care, ensuring your orchid thrives and rewards you with long-lasting blooms.
Establishing the Ideal Environment
Orchids flourish when they receive bright, indirect light, mimicking the dappled sun they would encounter beneath a tropical forest canopy. An east-facing window is often considered ideal, as it provides gentle morning light without the harsh intensity of midday sun. A south or west-facing exposure can work, but the plant must be protected by a sheer curtain to prevent the leaves from scorching. Leaf burn appears as white or yellow patches with dark edges and is a sign of too much direct light exposure.
Temperature management is equally important, as orchids prefer conditions similar to what humans find comfortable. Phalaenopsis orchids do best with daytime temperatures ranging from 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit and a slight drop at night to between 60 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. This natural temperature fluctuation is beneficial, with a drop of about 10 degrees Fahrenheit often helping to trigger the development of new flower spikes. Avoid placing the plant near cold drafts or heat sources like vents, which can cause sudden, stressful temperature shifts.
Since most homes have significantly drier air than an orchid’s native habitat, humidity levels should be maintained between 50 and 70 percent. Low humidity can cause bud drop and deformed new growth. A simple method to increase ambient moisture is to use a humidity tray, placing the potted orchid on a saucer filled with pebbles and water. The bottom of the pot must sit above the water level to prevent the roots from constantly soaking, which leads to rot.
The Watering and Feeding Schedule
Watering mistakes are the most common cause of orchid failure, as their specialized aerial roots require both moisture and air circulation. The frequency of watering depends heavily on the potting medium; orchids in bark mix typically need water every 7 to 10 days, while those in sphagnum moss may require it less often, perhaps every 12 to 14 days. The best indicator is the color of the roots, which will appear silvery-white when dry and turn a pale green after a thorough watering.
The proper method involves drenching the plant thoroughly with room-temperature water, allowing it to run freely through the pot’s drainage holes. Place the pot in a sink and run water over the medium for several minutes, ensuring all roots are saturated. Avoid letting water collect in the crown (the central point where the leaves meet), as this leads to fungal infection and rot. Let the pot drain completely for at least 20 minutes before returning it to its spot to prevent the roots from sitting in stagnant water.
A common misconception is the use of ice cubes for watering, but this practice is not recommended for a tropical plant that prefers warmth. While the slow melt prevents overwatering, the cold temperature can shock the plant and potentially cause bud drop. Instead of ice, focus on a controlled drenching that mimics a tropical rain shower.
Orchids should be fertilized consistently, following the principle of “weakly, weekly” during active growth. Use a balanced fertilizer formulated for orchids, diluted to about one-quarter strength. During winter or when the plant is not actively growing, fertilization can be reduced or stopped. Regularly flushing the potting medium with plain water prevents the buildup of mineral salts from the fertilizer, which can damage the roots.
Repotting and Encouraging New Blooms
Repotting is a structural maintenance task that should be performed every one to two years, or when the bark or moss potting medium begins to decompose and hold too much moisture. The best time to repot is after the orchid has finished blooming and new root or leaf growth is visible, never while the plant is still in flower. The new pot should only be one size larger than the current one, ensuring the plant remains snug, and must have excellent drainage.
Once the plant is removed from its old container, the roots must be carefully cleaned and inspected. Any roots that are brown, black, or feel mushy and hollow should be trimmed away with sterilized shears, as these are dead or rotting. Healthy roots are firm and can be white, yellow, or green. Center the plant in the new pot, and gently work fresh, coarse orchid mix (typically fir bark or sphagnum moss) around the roots until the base of the plant rests just below the rim.
Encouraging a Phalaenopsis to rebloom requires a specific environmental cue, as the plant needs to feel a change in its conditions to initiate flowering. This usually involves exposing the orchid to a consistent period of slightly cooler night temperatures, ideally in the 55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit range for several weeks in the fall. Once the flower spike has finished blooming, it can be cut back to promote new growth.
If the entire spike is still green, a new branch of flowers can often be encouraged by cutting the spike just above the second or third node (the small, triangular bump) from the bottom. If the flower spike has turned completely yellow or brown, it should be cut off entirely near the base of the plant. Providing the appropriate light levels and this temperature drop will signal the plant to begin the process of developing a new spike, which can take several months.