Cherry trees offer the possibility of expanding your orchard or preserving a favored variety. Propagating new trees from existing ones allows for genetic replication, maintaining desirable fruit qualities or ornamental characteristics. This process can also be a cost-effective way to acquire more trees. Understanding various methods and their specific requirements is key to successful propagation.
Understanding Cherry Tree Propagation Methods
Propagating cherry trees involves several distinct approaches. Cuttings involve taking a section of a parent plant and encouraging it to root, creating a genetically identical clone. While straightforward for some plants, cherry trees can be challenging to root from cuttings.
Grafting and budding join a part of one plant (the scion or bud) to the root system of another (the rootstock). These methods ensure the new tree produces fruit true to the parent, benefiting from the rootstock’s vigor or disease resistance. Seed propagation uses sexual reproduction, meaning the resulting tree may not be identical to the parent and often takes longer to bear fruit. This variability makes seeds less preferred for replicating specific cherry cultivars.
Propagating Cherry Trees from Cuttings
Propagating cherry trees from cuttings involves taking a stem section and encouraging it to develop roots, producing a clone of the parent. Several types of cuttings can be used: softwood (tender, new growth in late spring/early summer), semi-hardwood (partially matured wood in mid-late summer), and hardwood (mature, woody, in late winter when dormant).
To prepare a cutting, select a healthy, disease-free branch section, typically 4 to 8 inches long, with several leaf nodes. Remove leaves from the lower two-thirds to reduce moisture loss and expose nodes where roots will form. Dipping the cut end into a rooting hormone, such as Indole-3-butyric acid (IBA), can increase rooting success. Plant the prepared cutting into a well-draining rooting medium, such as peat moss and perlite or coco coir, ensuring good contact.
Maintain high humidity around the cuttings by covering them with a plastic bag or dome, and keep the rooting medium consistently moist but not saturated. Provide bright, indirect light and maintain a temperature of at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 degrees Celsius) for optimal rooting. Success rates vary depending on the cherry variety and environmental conditions. Some varieties, like Evans cherry, root readily from softwood cuttings.
Propagating Cherry Trees by Grafting and Budding
Grafting and budding are effective methods for propagating cherry trees, ensuring the new tree produces fruit true to the parent variety. These techniques join a desired cherry scion (a shoot or bud) onto a compatible rootstock, which provides the root system. The cambium layers, the thin growing tissue just beneath the bark, must align for a successful union. Grafting is best in late winter to early spring, just before the rootstock’s buds swell, while the scion wood is dormant. Budding, using a single bud, is often performed in summer when the bark slips easily, usually mid-July to mid-August.
Common grafting techniques include whip-and-tongue, cleft grafting, and bark grafting. Whip-and-tongue involves complementary angled cuts and a “tongue” to interlock scion and rootstock. Cleft grafting makes a split in the rootstock for a wedge-shaped scion. Bark grafting is for larger rootstocks, inserting the scion under the bark. Use sharp, sterile tools for clean cuts to promote healing and prevent disease.
Selecting a compatible rootstock is important for the grafted cherry tree’s long-term success. Popular rootstocks include Mazzard (vigorous, widely compatible) and Mahaleb (drought tolerant). Dwarfing rootstocks like Gisela series (e.g., Gisela 5, 6, 12) produce smaller, more manageable trees. After grafting, tightly wrap the union with grafting tape or rubber bands to hold scion and rootstock together and prevent desiccation. Apply grafting wax or sealant over the wrapped area for further protection.
Budding techniques like T-budding and chip budding are also successful. T-budding involves a T-shaped incision in the rootstock’s bark, lifting flaps, and inserting a prepared bud. Chip budding removes a small chip of wood with a bud from the scion, fitting it into a corresponding notch on the rootstock. Wrap the bud, leaving it exposed, to remain dormant until the following spring. Remove any growth emerging from the rootstock below the graft union to ensure the scion receives all resources.
Propagating Cherry Trees from Seeds
Propagating cherry trees from seeds is a viable method, though it rarely produces a tree identical to the parent, especially for fruiting cultivars. Genetic variability means the resulting fruit quality can be unpredictable, making this method more suited for growing rootstock or experimenting with new varieties. Cherry seeds require cold stratification to break dormancy and encourage germination.
To prepare seeds for stratification, clean them thoroughly to remove any fruit residue, which can lead to mold. After cleaning, the pits (seeds) need a cold, moist period, mimicking winter conditions. Mix seeds with moist peat moss, sand, or vermiculite in a sealed container or plastic bag and refrigerate for 10 to 12 weeks at around 40 degrees Fahrenheit (4 degrees Celsius). Ensure the medium remains consistently moist.
Once stratification is complete, plant seeds about 1 inch deep in well-draining potting soil. Provide warmth and light for germination, placing pots in a bright location. Growing cherry trees from seed is a long-term commitment, as it can take several years for the sapling to mature and begin producing fruit, often 5 to 10 years or more.
Aftercare for Newly Propagated Cherry Trees
Proper aftercare is important for the survival and establishment of newly propagated cherry trees. Consistent watering is essential, especially during dry periods, to ensure the young root system has adequate moisture. Newly propagated trees do not yet have extensive root systems to seek out water efficiently. Water newly planted trees weekly, increasing frequency during dry or warm weather.
Protecting young trees from environmental extremes, such as harsh direct sunlight, strong winds, or frost, is also important. Initial placement in bright, indirect light is beneficial, gradually acclimating them to full sun. Monitoring for pests and diseases is important, as young trees can be more susceptible. Regularly inspect foliage and stems for any signs of trouble, addressing issues promptly.
When roots have adequately filled their initial container, or when the young tree has developed a robust root system, transplant it to a larger pot or its permanent outdoor location. Gradually acclimate the tree to outdoor conditions before final planting. For outdoor planting, select a site with full sun and well-draining soil. Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball but only as deep, ensuring the root collar is at or slightly above the soil line. A layer of mulch around the base can help retain soil moisture and regulate temperature.