Propagating your own cherry tree allows you to multiply a favorite variety and ensure the resulting tree will possess the same desirable characteristics as the parent. Successfully growing a new cherry tree from an existing one is generally achieved through vegetative methods, which preserve the exact genetic makeup of the source plant. This technique is especially appealing when a specific type of fruit quality, disease resistance, or growth habit is worth preserving.
Choosing the Best Strategy: Seeds Versus Clonal Methods
The choice of propagation method depends entirely on whether you want a genetic duplicate or a new, unique tree. Cherry seeds are the result of sexual reproduction, meaning they contain a mix of genetic material from two parent plants. Consequently, a tree grown from a cherry pit will not produce fruit that is true to the parent tree.
For this reason, seeds are typically used only to grow rootstock, which provides the anchor and root system for a different variety later. If your goal is to clone a specific cultivar, such as a ‘Bing’ or ‘Montmorency,’ you must use an asexual or clonal method like cuttings or grafting. Clonal propagation guarantees the new tree will be genetically identical to the source, ensuring you get the fruit characteristics you expect.
Step-by-Step Guide to Hardwood Cuttings
Hardwood cuttings use dormant wood collected in late winter or early spring before bud break. Select one-year-old wood that is approximately the thickness of a pencil, cutting segments about 6 to 10 inches long. The bottom cut should be made just below a bud node, and the top cut should be made above a bud.
To encourage root development, remove all buds from the lower half of the cutting. Gently scrape a small strip of bark away on two opposing sides near the base to expose the underlying cambium layer. Dip the prepared base into a rooting hormone powder or gel to stimulate root formation. Plant the cutting deeply into a well-draining, sterile medium like a mix of perlite and peat moss, ensuring at least two nodes remain below the soil line.
Maintaining high humidity is necessary for success, often achieved by placing a plastic bag over the pot to create a mini-greenhouse effect. Place the container in a location that receives bright, indirect sunlight and maintains a temperature around 65°F. Keep the medium consistently moist, but not waterlogged. Root formation typically takes several weeks to a few months, indicated by resistance when lightly tugging on the cutting.
Successful Grafting Techniques
Grafting combines the desirable fruiting wood with a hardy, often dwarfing, root system. The process involves joining two separate plant parts: the scion, the short section of the desired fruit-producing branch, and the rootstock, the established root system. Success depends on aligning the cambium layers—the thin, green, actively growing tissue just beneath the bark—of both components so they can grow together and form a vascular connection.
The scion wood must be collected during the tree’s dormant season and stored under cool, moist conditions until grafting takes place in late winter or early spring. Two common techniques are the whip-and-tongue graft, ideal for pencil-sized rootstock, and the cleft graft, used for larger diameter rootstock. The whip-and-tongue method involves making matching diagonal cuts with a small downward-facing tongue on both parts, allowing them to interlock securely and maximize cambium contact.
The cleft graft involves splitting the rootstock and inserting two wedge-shaped scions into the split, ensuring the cambium layers align. Regardless of the technique used, the graft union must be immediately and tightly secured with grafting tape or rubber bands. The entire union is then sealed with grafting wax or a specialized sealant to prevent water loss and protect the exposed tissue from pathogens.
Long-Term Care for Young Trees
Once rooted or healed, the young tree requires careful transition to ensure long-term survival. The ideal time to transplant the tree into its final location is during the dormant season, typically in late autumn or early spring. Dig a planting hole that is two to three times wider than the root ball but no deeper, which encourages the roots to grow outward into the surrounding native soil.
When positioning a grafted tree, ensure the graft union—the slight bulge where the two parts joined—remains several inches above the final soil line. During the first growing season, the tree requires consistent moisture, meaning deep watering about once a week during dry periods to establish a robust root system. Applying a 2 to 3-inch layer of organic mulch around the base helps retain soil moisture and regulate temperature. Keep the mulch a few inches away from the trunk to prevent rot.
Structural pruning in the first few years aims to shape the tree to support future fruit loads, establishing a strong central leader or well-spaced scaffold branches. Remove any shoots that emerge from the rootstock below the graft union, as these are genetically different and divert energy from the main tree. Protecting the young trunk from sun scald, pests, and browsing animals with tree guards is a necessary preventative measure.