The Pothos, or Epipremnum aureum, is a highly favored and resilient houseplant renowned for its graceful, trailing vines and ease of care. This species is often recommended for beginners because of its forgiving nature and its remarkable ability to be multiplied through propagation. Propagation is the process of creating new plants from a cutting of the mother plant. Pothos is widely considered one of the simplest plants to propagate.
Preparing the Cutting
Successful propagation relies on isolating the node, the structure that holds the potential for new growth. The node appears as a small bump or ridge along the stem where a leaf stalk emerges. This area contains meristematic tissue, which develops into roots when placed in a suitable environment.
To take a cutting, use a clean, sharp tool, such as sterile shears or a knife, to make a precise cut. Sterilizing the blade with rubbing alcohol prevents the transfer of pathogens. The cut should be made just below a node, ensuring the node remains intact on the detached cutting.
Each cutting should contain at least one node, though two to three nodes increase the chance of success. Remove any leaves that would fall below the water or soil line. This prevents rotting and allows the node to focus its energy on root production.
Rooting Using the Water Method
The water method is the most popular technique for propagating Pothos due to its simplicity and visual confirmation of root development. Place the prepared cutting into a clean vessel filled with room-temperature water, ensuring the node is completely submerged while the leaves remain above the waterline.
The cutting needs bright, indirect light, as direct sunlight can overheat the water and scorch the leaves. Change the water at least weekly to replenish dissolved oxygen, which is necessary for root development. Stagnant water encourages harmful bacteria and can lead to stem rot.
Within about two weeks, small white roots should begin to emerge from the submerged nodes. While the cutting can remain in the water, avoid leaving it there for an excessively long time. Water-grown roots are structurally different from soil roots and require careful transition.
Rooting Using the Direct Soil Method
Rooting the Pothos cutting directly into a soil medium eliminates the transplant shock associated with moving water-grown roots. Use a light, well-draining potting mix or pure sphagnum moss. Create a pre-dug hole using a pencil or finger to prevent damage when inserting the delicate node.
Applying a powdered rooting hormone to the cut end of the stem can accelerate the process, though Pothos roots readily without it. Rooting hormone contains auxins that signal the plant to initiate root development. After planting the node below the surface, keep the medium consistently moist but not saturated.
Maintaining high humidity is beneficial since the cutting is vulnerable to drying out without established roots. A makeshift humidity dome, such as a clear plastic bag over the pot, traps moisture. Root formation is less visible, but resistance felt after a gentle tug after four to six weeks indicates successful rooting.
Transitioning and Long-Term Establishment
Once water-rooted cuttings develop a robust root system, they are ready for soil. The ideal transition time is when roots are one to two inches long and secondary roots have branched out. Excessively long water roots struggle to adapt to soil, increasing the risk of transplant shock.
Select a small pot with drainage holes, only slightly wider than the root ball, to prevent excess moisture retention. Use a fresh, well-aerated potting mix and gently bury the roots, keeping the crown at the soil line. Water thoroughly until it drains from the bottom to settle the soil around the new roots.
The newly potted cutting requires a specific care regimen during establishment. Keep it in bright, indirect light and maintain consistent soil moisture for the first one to two weeks. This helps the delicate water-grown roots acclimate. Afterward, treat the Pothos like a mature plant, allowing the top inch or two of soil to dry out between waterings.