The Philodendron hederaceum var. micans, commonly known as the velvet leaf philodendron, is recognized for its distinctive, heart-shaped foliage covered in a soft, iridescent, velvety texture. This vining plant is an excellent candidate for propagation, allowing owners to easily create new specimens or make existing plants appear fuller. Propagating from stem cuttings is a simple way to expand your collection. This guide details the steps for successfully creating new plants from healthy cuttings.
Selecting and Preparing Cuttings
Successful propagation begins with selecting a robust, healthy stem. Locate the node, which appears as a slight bump or swelling where a leaf petiole attaches to the main stem. This point contains the tissue necessary for new root growth and is where aerial roots often emerge.
To prepare the cutting, use sterilized scissors or pruning shears to prevent disease transmission. Make a clean cut about a quarter-inch below a chosen node, ensuring the cutting includes at least one node and one healthy leaf. While a single-node cutting is viable, a segment with two to three nodes provides more energy reserves during the rooting phase.
Allow the stem segment to sit in the open air for an hour or two to form a protective callus. This drying period prevents the tissue from absorbing excess water and rotting once placed into a rooting medium. Remove any lower leaves that would be submerged in water or buried in a solid medium, as submerged foliage will quickly decay and foul the rooting environment.
Rooting Methods: Water, Soil, and Moss
Water Propagation
Water propagation is the most popular rooting method for many home growers. Place the prepared cutting into a clear glass vessel filled with clean, non-chlorinated water, ensuring the node is fully submerged but the leaves remain above the water line. The clear container allows for easy observation of root development and any signs of stem decay.
To maintain a healthy environment, change the water completely every three to five days to replenish oxygen and prevent the buildup of harmful bacteria or algae. Keep the reservoir in bright, indirect light, as excessive direct sunlight can overheat the water and damage the roots. The roots that form are specialized for a liquid environment, which can make the transition to soil challenging later on.
Solid Medium Rooting
Alternatively, cuttings can be rooted directly into a solid, moist medium, which often results in stronger, soil-adapted roots and minimizes transplant shock. This approach typically involves a highly aerated substrate like pre-moistened sphagnum moss, perlite, or a mix of coco coir and perlite. The cutting is inserted into the medium so that the node is buried, and the solid medium is then kept consistently moist but never soggy, which is a balance that prevents both desiccation and rot.
Rooting in a solid medium requires maintaining a consistently high-humidity microclimate around the cutting. This can be achieved by placing the small pot inside a clear plastic dome or a sealed plastic bag, which traps moisture and mimics the humid conditions of the plant’s native habitat. This enclosed system reduces the rate of water loss through the leaves, allowing the cutting to focus its energy on producing new roots before it wilts. The rooting process in a solid medium is less visually transparent than water, so successful rooting is often indicated by resistance when gently tugging on the cutting or the appearance of new leaf growth.
Post-Rooting Care and Transplanting
The timing of the transition to a permanent potting mix is important for the long-term success of the new plant. For cuttings rooted in water, they are ready to be transplanted when the new, white roots have reached a length of approximately one to two inches. Waiting until the roots are this length ensures they are robust enough to anchor the plant and begin absorbing nutrients from the soil, but not so long that they become brittle and easily damaged during the move.
To minimize the shock of moving water-rooted cuttings into soil, it is beneficial to use a well-draining, chunky potting mix immediately after transplanting. A blend incorporating ingredients like orchid bark, perlite, and a quality houseplant soil provides the necessary aeration to prevent root rot. After planting, the soil should be thoroughly watered, and the new plant should be placed in a slightly shadier spot for the first week to let it acclimate without the stress of intense light.
New plants, whether they were rooted in water or a solid medium, thrive best when given bright, indirect light, which encourages compact growth and preserves the distinct velvety texture of the leaves. Maintaining a slightly higher humidity around the young plant for the first few weeks post-transplant is also helpful, as the root system is still establishing itself. The initial watering routine should focus on keeping the soil lightly moist, gradually shifting to the mature plant’s preference of allowing the top inch or two of soil to dry out between waterings.