A keiki is a miniature plantlet produced asexually by the parent orchid. For Phalaenopsis orchids, these clones typically emerge from a node, or a dormant bud, along the flower spike, sometimes as a response to stress or as a natural survival mechanism. Since a keiki is a genetic replica of the mother plant, it will produce identical flowers, offering a straightforward method for expanding an orchid collection. Successfully propagating a keiki involves carefully separating the new plantlet once it is mature enough to sustain itself and providing a suitable environment for independent growth.
Recognizing When a Keiki is Ready
Removing a keiki prematurely can cause transplant shock and lead to the plantlet’s failure. The keiki should demonstrate adequate independent growth before separation from the mother plant’s energy source. A dependable guideline is to wait until the plantlet has developed at least two to three healthy leaves.
The most important indicator, however, is the root system, which must be substantial enough to absorb water and nutrients on its own. Look for a minimum of two to three roots that have grown to be between one and three inches long. Actively growing roots are easily identified by their firm texture and bright green tips, which signal that the velamen, the spongy outer layer, is healthy and photosynthesizing.
If the keiki develops a flower spike before meeting these root and leaf criteria, it is generally recommended to remove the flower spike. This action redirects the plant’s limited energy away from reproduction and back toward establishing a robust root system.
Preparing the Workspace and Tools
Before beginning the propagation process, gathering and sanitizing the necessary tools helps to prevent the introduction of pathogens to the fresh wounds. The primary cutting instrument, whether a sharp knife, razor blade, or dedicated shears, must be sterilized with a solution of 70% isopropyl alcohol or a 10% bleach solution.
A small, clear plastic pot, ideally three to four inches in diameter, is the appropriate container size, as it allows for easy monitoring of the developing roots and moisture levels. The potting medium should be fresh and sterile, such as a fine-grade orchid bark mix or high-quality sphagnum moss. Optional materials include a powdered fungicide, like ground cinnamon, or a rooting hormone product to treat the cut sites.
Cutting and Potting the New Orchid
The physical separation begins with a precise cut on the flower spike. Use the sterilized blade to sever the spike approximately one to two inches above and below the keiki, ensuring the small stub of the spike remains attached to the plantlet. This spike section provides a stable anchor point for the young plant during the potting process and helps prevent damage to the delicate root crown.
Immediately after the cut, apply a powdered fungicide or ground cinnamon to the raw, open wounds on both the mother plant’s spike and the separated keiki’s spike stub. This application seals the vascular tissue and acts as a barrier against fungal infections. If using a rooting hormone, apply a small amount to the severed end of the keiki’s spike stub.
To pot the keiki, place the small plant into its prepared container, gently positioning the roots downward over the medium. The crown, which is the central growth point where the leaves emerge, must remain above the surface of the potting mix to prevent crown rot. The attached spike stub can be used to stabilize the keiki, or a small stake and a soft clip used to secure the plantlet upright.
Initial Care for the Propagated Keiki
Following potting, the young orchid requires a modified environment. Immediately place the newly potted keiki in a location that receives low to moderate indirect light. This reduced light exposure minimizes the demands on the underdeveloped root system.
High ambient humidity, ideally in the 60 to 80 percent range, is extremely beneficial for encouraging new root growth and preventing leaf desiccation. This can be achieved by placing the pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water, or by temporarily covering the keiki with a clear plastic dome or bag to trap moisture. The potting medium should be kept consistently moist but never waterlogged.
A gentle misting regimen for the keiki’s leaves and aerial roots for the first few days can also help maintain hydration. Avoid applying any fertilizer until the keiki shows distinct signs of establishment, such as the emergence of a new leaf or active root growth. Successful establishment is marked by the firm, plump appearance of the leaves and the continued emergence of bright green root tips.