Phalaenopsis orchids, commonly known as Moth Orchids, are popular flowering houseplants due to their long bloom times and ease of care. Propagation is the process of creating new plants from a single parent, allowing enthusiasts to expand their collection or share a specific variety. While creating new Phalaenopsis plants is achievable, the method differs significantly from the simple stem cuttings used for many common foliage plants. Understanding the unique biology of this orchid genus is the first step toward successful cloning.
Why Traditional Cuttings Do Not Work
The failure of typical stem cuttings is rooted in the Phalaenopsis orchid’s monopodial growth habit. Monopodial plants grow vertically from a single, central stem, continuously adding leaves from the apex (crown). This structural characteristic means the plant lacks the distinct nodes or stem segments containing dormant buds, called pseudobulbs, which allow other orchids (sympodial types) to be easily divided.
Cutting a section of the main stem does not provide the necessary meristematic tissue required to regenerate a complete new plant with both roots and shoots. Propagation sites on a Phalaenopsis are limited to the base of the plant or the nodes located along the flower spike. The plant’s architecture does not support the conventional cutting method used for plants like pothos or philodendrons.
Identifying and Encouraging Keiki Formation
The primary method for cloning a Phalaenopsis orchid is by cultivating a keiki, the Hawaiian word for “baby” or plantlet. Keikis are miniature clones that form naturally, often as a survival mechanism when the mother plant is stressed, or they can be intentionally induced. These plantlets typically emerge from the nodes along the flower spike, which are usually covered by a small protective bract.
To encourage keiki growth, locate these dormant nodes on the flower spike and carefully remove the thin, papery bract covering the bud. Once exposed, a specialized cytokinin paste, often called keiki paste, can be applied directly to the node. The active ingredient is typically the synthetic cytokinin 6-Benzylaminopurine (6-BAP), a plant hormone that promotes localized cell division and shoot formation.
The paste is usually blended with a sticky carrier like lanolin, ensuring the hormone remains in contact with the node and is released slowly. Applying this paste signals the dormant bud to produce vegetative growth (a keiki) rather than floral growth. Maintaining high humidity and temperatures between 75 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit further supports the plantlet’s development.
Step-by-Step Keiki Removal and Potting
A keiki must reach maturity on the mother plant before removal to ensure its survival as an independent organism. The plantlet is ready for separation once it has developed at least two to three healthy leaves and three or four roots that are approximately one to three inches long. Removing a keiki prematurely, before it has established sufficient root mass, significantly reduces its chance of survival.
The removal process requires sterile tools, such as a razor blade or sharp shears, to prevent the introduction of pathogens. The cut should be made on the flower spike approximately one to two inches below the keiki’s base and another inch or two above it. This leaves a small section of the spike attached to the plantlet, which acts as a handle and buffer, protecting the keiki’s growth axis from damage or infection.
After separation, treat the cut ends on both the keiki and the mother plant with a drying agent, such as cinnamon powder, which possesses natural fungicidal properties. The keiki is then potted immediately into a small container using a fine-grade orchid medium, such as sphagnum moss or a fine bark mix. If using moss, ensure it is not packed too tightly, as the young aerial roots require excellent air circulation.
Ensuring Survival of the New Plantlet
The newly potted keiki requires specialized care to support root establishment and rapid growth. These young plants benefit significantly from an environment with higher humidity, ideally maintained between 50 and 80 percent. This can be achieved using a humidity dome or a pebble tray filled partially with water. The constant moisture helps prevent the small, new roots from drying out before they become fully established.
The plantlet should be placed in a location that receives bright, indirect light, such as an east-facing window, since direct, intense sunlight can quickly scorch the tender leaves. While the medium must be kept slightly more moist than a mature orchid’s, it must still be allowed to approach dryness between waterings to prevent root rot. Fertilization should be delayed until the keiki is clearly established and showing new growth, at which point a half-strength, balanced orchid fertilizer can be introduced every few weeks.