The Pearls and Jade Pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is admired for its striking, highly variegated foliage featuring mottled splashes of white, cream, and green. This attractive coloration requires a higher light level than its all-green relatives, yet its vigorous nature makes it a forgiving houseplant. Propagation is the most effective way to expand your collection or maintain a bushier appearance by turning pruned vines into new plants. This process relies on taking stem cuttings, which easily develop new root structures from specialized growth points.
Selecting and Preparing Cuttings
Successful propagation begins with choosing a healthy, mature vine that is free of disease or damage. Before making any cuts, sterilize your pruning shears or scissors with rubbing alcohol to prevent pathogen transmission. The most important feature is the node, which appears as a bump or ring on the stem where a leaf emerges. This node contains the tissue responsible for new root development.
To prepare the cutting, make a clean cut just below a node. Ensure the cutting has at least one to three leaves attached for photosynthesis. Aim for a cutting that contains two to three nodes for the best chance of survival. Remove any leaves that would be submerged in water or buried in soil to prevent rotting and the introduction of fungus or bacteria.
Rooting Methods: Water vs. Soil
The two most common methods for rooting Pearls and Jade Pothos cuttings are placing them in water or directly into a solid medium. Water propagation is favored for its simplicity and the ability to watch the roots grow. Submerge the nodes in a small container of room-temperature water, ensuring no leaves are touching the water surface.
Place the container in a location that receives bright, indirect sunlight, as this energy is necessary for root initiation. Change the water every four to seven days to replenish the oxygen supply and remove potential contaminants. This process stimulates the development of roots from the submerged nodes.
Alternatively, root cuttings directly into a well-draining soil mixture, such as potting soil blended with perlite or coco coir for aeration. Planting directly into soil produces sturdier roots that bypass the shock of transition later. Insert the node end of the cutting into the soil and keep the medium consistently moist, like a wrung-out sponge. To encourage faster root growth, increase humidity by covering the pot with a clear plastic bag or humidity dome.
Transitioning and Long-Term Care
Once roots have developed, transition the new plant for long-term growth, especially if it was rooted in water. Water-rooted cuttings are ready to be potted when the new roots are approximately one to two inches long. Waiting until the roots are longer than a few inches can make the transition more challenging, as these fragile water roots are less efficient at absorbing nutrients from soil.
To minimize transplant shock, plant the rooted cutting in a small pot with fresh, well-aerated potting mix. Ensure the delicate roots are not bent or damaged during the process. The soil for the newly potted cutting should be kept consistently damp for the first week or two. This gradual reduction in moisture helps the water-adapted roots adjust to the soil environment.
The newly established plant requires bright, indirect light to maintain its signature variegation. Avoid direct, intense sunlight, which can scorch the delicate variegated tissue. After the initial acclimation period, revert to a standard watering schedule, allowing the top inch or two of soil to dry out between waterings.