Propagating orchids from a flower stem creates an exact genetic copy of the parent plant. This method results in a baby plantlet known as a “keiki” (Hawaiian for “child”), which is a clone produced through asexual reproduction. While some orchids naturally produce these offsets, the process can be reliably induced on monopodial types, such as the popular Phalaenopsis, or Moth Orchid, using a specialized plant hormone paste. This technique allows for the precise cloning of a favorite orchid without the variability or long wait times associated with seed germination.
Identifying the Correct Flower Spike and Node
The process begins by selecting the appropriate flower spike and identifying the dormant nodes. The spent spike of a healthy Phalaenopsis is typically the best candidate. Dormant nodes appear as small, triangular swellings or bumps situated along the length of the flower spike.
Each node is covered by a thin, papery layer of tissue known as a bract or sheath. This sheath must be gently peeled away to expose the underlying plant tissue where cell division will be stimulated. Use a sterilized tool, such as a sharp razor blade or fine-tipped tweezers, to carefully remove this protective cover without damaging the bud underneath. Sterilizing tools with rubbing alcohol prevents the introduction of pathogens.
Initiating Growth Using Keiki Paste
The inducement of growth relies on keiki paste, a product formulated to trigger cell division. This paste contains a plant growth hormone, usually cytokinin, suspended in a thick carrier like lanolin or petroleum jelly. The carrier base ensures the hormone remains in contact with the treated tissue and is not washed away during watering.
Before application, ensure tools are sterile. Gently use the tip of a toothpick or a clean cotton swab to lightly scrape or score the surface of the exposed node tissue. This minor abrasion helps the plant absorb the hormone more effectively.
Next, scoop a small, pea-sized amount of the keiki paste onto an applicator tool. Apply this paste directly and thoroughly onto the scraped, green tissue of the exposed dormant bud. The goal is to create a thin, even layer that completely covers the node, sealing it with the cytokinin hormone.
Warm temperatures and elevated humidity levels mimic the conditions that favor the rapid growth of new shoots. Providing these stable, humid conditions increases the likelihood that the treated node will develop into a keiki rather than a new flower spike.
Nurturing the Developing Keiki
After paste application, consistent monitoring and care are required to support the mother plant and the nascent growth. Initial swelling or visible changes at the treated node may take three to six weeks to appear. The development of a full keiki, complete with adequate roots, often takes several months, ranging from six months to a full year.
During this phase, the keiki is dependent on the mother plant for water and nutrients. Maintain a regular watering schedule for the mother orchid, ensuring it remains healthy to support the extra growth. Increase the ambient humidity around the plant, perhaps by placing it on a humidity tray, which helps encourage the new plantlet’s tender tissues.
Protect the developing keiki from intense, direct sunlight, as young leaves are susceptible to scorching. A healthy keiki first shows signs of small, green leaves emerging from the node, followed by the development of plump, firm aerial roots, signaling the plantlet is progressing toward independence.
Separating and Potting the New Orchid
The timing of separation is important for the keiki’s long-term survival, as premature removal often leads to failure. The plantlet must have sufficiently mature structures to support itself independently. A keiki is ready for separation when it has produced at least two or three small leaves and its own aerial roots are a minimum of one to three inches long.
To separate the keiki, use a sharp, sterilized cutting instrument. Make cuts on the flower spike about one inch above and one inch below the keiki’s attachment point. This leaves a small segment of the parent spike attached, providing a stabilizing handle for potting.
Treat the fresh cuts on both the keiki and the mother plant with a natural fungicide, such as powdered cinnamon, to seal the wounds and prevent infection. Allow the separated keiki to sit in the open air for a few hours to let the wounds dry and callous over before planting.
For potting, choose a small, well-draining container, typically around three inches, and use a specialized orchid medium like fine bark chips or sphagnum moss. Gently set the keiki into the new pot, directing the roots downward, and fill the container with the potting mix. After potting, maintain high humidity and keep the new orchid in bright, indirect light to reduce transplant shock. The young plant will need a few weeks to establish itself before regular orchid care, including diluted fertilizer, can begin.