Furry Feather Calatheas (Calathea rufibarba) are visually appealing houseplants, cherished for their distinctive foliage. This guide provides detailed instructions on propagating these plants, allowing expansion of your collection or rejuvenation of existing plants.
About Furry Feather Calatheas and Propagation
The Furry Feather Calathea, also known as Velvet Calathea, is recognized for its long, wavy, dark green, velvety leaves. The undersides of the leaves and stems feature reddish-purple fuzz, which gives the plant its “rufibarba” name, meaning “red beard.” This tropical perennial, native to Brazilian rainforests, grows in upright clumps, reaching 2-3 feet.
When and How to Propagate
The optimal time to propagate Furry Feather Calatheas is during their active growth phase, typically in late spring or early summer. This timing allows newly divided plants to establish more readily.
Division is the most effective and commonly used method for propagating Furry Feather Calatheas. Unlike some other houseplants, these plants do not readily root from stem or leaf cuttings, nor are they typically grown from seeds, as indoor flowering is rare and seed propagation is slow. Division ensures that each new plant has an established root system and foliage for better survival.
Propagating by Division Step-by-Step
Propagating Furry Feather Calatheas by division involves careful handling to minimize stress on the plant. Begin by watering the parent plant thoroughly one day before propagation to hydrate roots and ease removal from the pot. Gather necessary tools: clean, sharp scissors or a knife, new pots with drainage holes, and a well-draining potting mix. Sterilize all cutting tools with rubbing alcohol or a bleach solution to prevent disease transmission.
Gently remove the Calathea from its current pot by gripping the plant at its base and tipping the pot sideways. You might need to tap the pot’s sides or gently pull to loosen the root ball. Carefully brush away excess soil from the root ball to expose rhizomes and natural divisions. Look for distinct clumps or sections within the root system where the plant has naturally formed growths. These are the points where the plant can be divided.
With clean hands or your sterilized tool, gently tease apart the root ball at these natural divisions. If the roots are densely tangled, a sharp knife may be used to make clean cuts, ensuring minimal damage. Each separated division must have a healthy portion of roots and at least one or two shoots or leaves to ensure its viability. Avoid divisions that have leaves but very few roots, or roots and rhizomes but no leaves, as these are less likely to survive.
Once separated, prepare the new pots by filling them about one-third with fresh potting mix, creating a slight mound in the center. Place each new division into its pot, ensuring it sits at the same depth as it was in the original pot. Fill around the roots with more potting mix, gently firming the soil to provide support and remove any air pockets. Water each new plant thoroughly after potting to settle the soil around the roots.
Care for Your New Calathea Divisions
Newly propagated Calathea divisions require specific care to help them establish successfully. Place the new plants in a warm, humid environment with bright, indirect light. Direct sunlight can scorch their delicate leaves, while insufficient light may hinder recovery.
Maintaining high humidity (ideally above 60%) is important. This can be achieved with a humidifier, pebble tray, or by grouping plants.
Keep the soil consistently moist but never waterlogged, allowing the top inch to dry out slightly before rewatering. Overwatering can lead to root rot, which is particularly detrimental to young divisions.
Avoid fertilizing new divisions immediately after propagation; wait at least a month or until you observe new growth, as their root systems are sensitive. Patience is necessary during this period, as it can take several weeks for new plants to adjust and show significant new growth.
Troubleshooting Propagation
Despite careful propagation, new Calathea divisions may experience some issues. Wilting can occur due to underwatering, low humidity, or transplant shock. Ensuring consistent moisture and high humidity, along with minimizing environmental changes, can help mitigate this.
If leaves turn yellow, it could indicate overwatering, overfertilization, or mineral buildup from tap water. Adjust watering frequency, consider using distilled or rainwater, and avoid immediate fertilization to address yellowing.
Brown edges or tips on leaves often point to low humidity or chemicals present in tap water. Increasing humidity levels and using filtered or rainwater can prevent this.
Root rot, characterized by mushy stems and drooping leaves, is a result of overwatering and poor drainage. Ensure pots have adequate drainage holes and allow the soil to dry slightly between waterings to prevent this issue. If a division appears stressed, providing consistent care and a stable environment is key to its recovery.