How to Propagate a Philodendron Monstera

Propagating a plant is the process of creating a new plant from a single part of a parent plant, allowing you to expand your collection easily. The Monstera deliciosa, often called the Swiss Cheese Plant due to its iconic perforated leaves, is one of the most popular houseplants and propagates readily from stem cuttings. While frequently mislabeled as a “Split-Leaf Philodendron,” the Monstera is a distinct genus within the Araceae family, known for its rapid growth and relative ease of cloning. Successfully growing a new plant requires understanding the specific anatomy of the stem and providing the correct environment for root development.

Essential Tools and Preparation

Preparing the correct tools is the first step in ensuring a successful and healthy propagation attempt. You will need a clean, sharp cutting instrument, such as bypass pruning shears or a new razor blade, to make a precise incision. Sterilizing the blade with rubbing alcohol before and after the cut is necessary to prevent the transmission of bacteria or fungal diseases.

Before making any cut, identify the correct section of the stem on the mature plant. The cutting must contain a node, the slightly raised joint where a leaf stalk emerges from the main stem. This node houses the meristematic tissue capable of developing into new roots and shoots. You may see a small, brown aerial root already emerging from this point. Rooting hormone, a powdered compound containing auxins, is optional but can be applied to the cut surface to encourage faster root formation.

Technique for Taking the Cutting

The success of propagation relies almost entirely on the precise location of the cut relative to the node. Select a stem section that has at least one healthy leaf and a clearly visible node. New growth, both roots and leaves, will only emerge from this specialized region.

Once the section is chosen, make a clean, diagonal cut on the stem approximately one-half to one inch below the identified node. This short segment of stem, called the internode, provides a buffer of tissue below the growth point. A diagonal cut increases the surface area of the wound, which can aid in the absorption of water or rooting hormone, promoting quicker healing. Keep the cutting in a clean, shaded area while preparing the rooting environment to minimize stress.

Choosing the Rooting Environment

There are several viable mediums for rooting a Monstera cutting, each offering a distinct balance of moisture and oxygen. The most common method is water propagation, involving submerging the node and aerial roots in a clear glass of non-chlorinated water. While this allows for easy visual monitoring, the roots that form are structurally different from soil roots and may experience shock when transplanted.

A more effective method for developing robust roots is using pre-moistened sphagnum moss, which provides exceptional aeration and retains high moisture. The cutting’s node is nestled directly into the damp moss, often placed inside a clear container to create a mini-greenhouse. This high-humidity environment mimics the plant’s natural tropical habitat and encourages quick root growth.

For experienced propagators, the cutting can be rooted directly into a coarse, well-draining substrate like perlite or a specialized aroid mix containing orchid bark and coco coir. Placing the cutting in a semi-hydroponic medium like perlite offers a good balance of moisture and air pockets, reducing the risk of stem rot. Regardless of the chosen medium, keep the cutting in a location that receives bright, indirect light, as low light will severely slow the rooting process.

Transplanting and Establishing the New Plant

The transition from a rooting environment to a permanent pot must be timed correctly to minimize transplant shock. Once the newly formed roots have developed to a length of at least two to three inches, they are mature enough to be moved into a soil mixture. Roots that are too short may struggle to establish themselves, and excessively long roots can be damaged during potting.

If the cutting was rooted in water or sphagnum moss, a gradual acclimatization process, called “hardening off,” is beneficial before the transfer. This involves slowly exposing the cutting to less humid air over a few days to prepare the new roots for the drier soil environment. The new pot should be only slightly larger than the root ball and filled with a chunky, well-draining aroid mix to prevent waterlogging.

After potting, water the plant thoroughly until water drains from the bottom, and avoid fertilizing for the first six weeks to prevent burning the fragile new roots. Keep the newly potted plant in the same location with bright, indirect light. Ensure the soil remains consistently moist for the first few weeks, which helps the water-acclimated roots adjust to the solid medium and allows the plant to establish itself.