Peonies are long-lived, perennial plants prized for their large, showy blooms, making propagation a common goal for gardeners. While many ornamentals are propagated using stem or leaf cuttings, successfully propagating a peony requires focusing entirely on the plant’s robust root structure. Propagation is achieved by carefully dividing the underground crown or utilizing specific root sections, not by severing green stems.
Why Traditional Stem Cuttings Fail
Taking a cutting from a green stem is ineffective for peonies due to their unique biological structure. Peonies are herbaceous perennials that rely on the crown—the junction between the stem and the root—for perennial regrowth. This crown contains the concentrated meristematic tissue responsible for generating new shoots and roots.
A stem cutting, taken from the above-ground stalk, lacks the pre-formed meristematic tissue necessary to reliably initiate new root growth. Peonies do not readily form adventitious roots along their stems, making it nearly impossible for the home gardener to root a simple stem cutting. The plant’s energy reserves are stored in its large, fleshy roots, not the stems, meaning a cutting has insufficient resources to sustain itself. Attempting to propagate a peony from a stem cutting almost invariably results in the cutting rotting before any viable root structure can develop.
Propagating Peonies by Root Division
Root division is the most reliable method for propagating herbaceous peonies, ensuring the new plant is a genetic clone of the parent. The optimal time is late summer or early autumn, typically September to October, after the foliage fades and the plant enters dormancy. This timing allows the separated pieces to establish a root system before the ground freezes.
The process begins by cutting the foliage back, then carefully digging up the entire root clump. Use a shovel or fork to dig a wide circle, 8 to 12 inches away from the stems, to avoid damaging the fleshy roots. After lifting the root ball, wash away all the soil to expose the crown and the small, plump, pink or red buds known as “eyes.”
These eyes are the dormant buds that will develop into next year’s stems and flowers. Using a clean, sharp knife or sturdy shears, section the root clump into smaller divisions. For a robust start, each new division should possess at least three to five healthy eyes and a portion of the thick, tuberous roots for stored energy.
The planting depth is the most important detail for success, as planting too deeply is the most common reason for a peony failing to bloom. Each division must be replanted so the eyes sit no more than one to two inches (3 to 5 centimeters) below the final soil surface. Planting the eyes too far beneath the ground results in a plant that produces only foliage, a phenomenon known as being “blind.”
Utilizing Root Cuttings and Eyes
Root Cuttings
A distinct and more advanced technique involves utilizing the fleshy root sections themselves, maximizing propagation from a single plant. This method focuses on “blind roots”—pieces that lack the visible pink or red eyes of the crown—which can generate new growth adventitiously. This process is much slower than crown division but yields additional plants.
This process involves selecting thick, fleshy root pieces at least one-half inch in diameter and cutting them into sections approximately six inches long. These pieces are planted in a sterile, well-draining medium, such as a mix of sand and peat or perlite. They are often placed horizontally or vertically with the proximal (crown-end) facing up.
The small root pieces must remain in this environment for an extended period, sometimes over a year, while they slowly develop new eyes and a supporting root system. This method is challenging for the casual gardener, requiring consistent moisture and patience before above-ground growth is seen. The energy for the new plant is drawn entirely from the stored starches within the root piece until a new crown forms.
Post-Planting Care for New Peonies
Proper aftercare is essential for successful establishment once the root divisions or cuttings are replanted. Newly planted peonies should be watered thoroughly immediately after planting to settle the soil and eliminate air pockets. This initial deep watering must be followed by consistent moisture during the first year, especially during dry spells, to encourage new feeder root development.
Patience is necessary, as newly propagated peonies focus energy on developing a strong root system rather than flowering. The first year’s growth is often minimal, and flowering should not be expected. Some growers recommend pinching off any flower buds that attempt to form in the first one to two years to redirect the plant’s energy toward root establishment.
Before the first hard freeze, apply a light layer of winter protection, such as pine needles or straw, to prevent soil heaving. Avoid piling mulch directly over the crown or eyes, as this can bury them too deeply and prevent future blooming. New divisions typically take one to two years to produce their first flowers and three to five years to reach full, mature blooming potential.