How to Propagate a Hawaiian Ti Plant

The Hawaiian Ti Plant (Cordyline fruticosa) is a popular tropical plant admired for its vibrant foliage, which ranges from deep green to striking shades of red, pink, and burgundy. Whether grown outdoors in warm climates or as a dramatic houseplant, the Ti plant is easily multiplied through propagation, allowing gardeners to create new, healthy plants from existing material.

Setting the Stage for Successful Propagation

Optimal propagation timing aligns with the Ti plant’s active growth phase, typically during the spring and summer months. Warm temperatures (65°F to 95°F) encourage faster root development. Before making any cuts, all tools, such as knives or pruning shears, must be thoroughly cleaned and sterilized to prevent the transmission of pathogens.

A successful rooting environment requires warmth and humidity, often achieved by placing cuttings in a bright location with indirect sunlight. Rooting mediums can include perlite, sphagnum moss, or a light, well-aerated potting mix. Although Cordyline fruticosa often roots easily, dipping the cut end in rooting hormone powder can accelerate root initiation and offer protection against rot.

Method One: Rooting Tip and Stem Cuttings

Tip cuttings are taken from the newest growth at the top of a stem, including a rosette of leaves. Select a healthy stem tip and use a sterilized tool to cut a segment 4 to 6 inches long. The cut should be made just below a leaf node, as this concentration of cells actively produces new roots.

Prepare the cutting by removing all but the top two or three leaves to reduce moisture loss. The bare stem can be placed directly into a well-draining substrate, such as a soil and perlite mix, or suspended in a clean glass of room-temperature water. If using water, change it every few days to maintain freshness and prevent bacterial buildup, ensuring only the stem is submerged.

Place the cutting in a warm spot with bright, indirect light. For soil propagation, maintain a consistently moist, but not soggy, medium. Root formation typically begins within three to six weeks, appearing as small, white nubs along the submerged stem section.

Method Two: Dormant Cane Segment Propagation

Dormant cane segments propagate older, thicker Ti plant material, often used when the parent plant is tall and leggy. This method uses leafless, woody sections of the main stalk containing stored energy. Cut the stalk into pieces 2 to 4 inches long, ensuring each segment has at least one or two growth nodes.

Segments can be rooted by laying them horizontally on top of a moist, well-draining medium, such as sand or a peat-based mix. Alternatively, segments can be planted vertically, partially buried. If planting vertically, correctly identify the top of the cane for proper shoot development; horizontal planting removes this concern.

The container should be kept warm with high humidity, often achieved with a plastic dome or bag. New shoots emerge from the dormant nodes, followed by roots developing below the soil line. These segments require less initial water than leafy cuttings, but the medium must remain slightly damp to stimulate growth.

Transplanting Rooted Material to Soil

Once new roots are fully established (1 to 2 inches long), the material is ready for transplanting. Choose a container only slightly larger than the current root ball (about 2 inches wider) to prevent the soil from becoming overly saturated. A deep pot is beneficial to accommodate the Ti plant’s long taproot.

The ideal potting mix is rich and highly aerated, often containing standard potting soil, peat moss, and perlite to ensure sharp drainage. Carefully transfer the newly rooted plant, taking care not to damage the delicate root structure. Set the plant so the soil level remains consistent with its previous depth.

After transplanting, water thoroughly until moisture drains from the bottom, then allow the top layer of soil to dry slightly before the next watering. Keep the young plant in bright, indirect light. Avoid fertilizer for the first month to prevent shocking the developing roots; once established, use a light feeding of balanced liquid fertilizer.