The Fiddle Leaf Fig (Ficus lyrata) is a highly sought-after houseplant recognized for its large, violin-shaped leaves and dramatic presence. While sometimes considered temperamental to care for, propagating this plant is a rewarding way to multiply your collection or save a section of an overgrown specimen. Growing new plants from your existing one allows owners to manage the plant’s size and share its beauty.
Essential Preparation and Timing
The optimal time to begin the propagation process is during the plant’s active growing season, which generally runs from late spring through early summer. Attempting propagation when the plant is dormant in the fall or winter significantly slows root development and reduces the chances of success. Before making any cuts, all tools must be sterilized, typically by wiping them down with rubbing alcohol, to prevent the transmission of bacteria or fungi.
Selecting the right section of the parent plant is an important first step. For a cutting, choose a healthy, semi-hardwood branch that contains at least two to four leaf nodes. The leaf node is the small bump where new roots will emerge from the vascular tissue. Applying a rooting hormone, which contains plant auxins, to the cut surface is an optional step that can stimulate faster root growth and protect the stem.
Step-by-Step Guide to Stem Cuttings
Stem cuttings are the most common method for propagating Fiddle Leaf Figs, offering a straightforward path to generating new plants. Begin by using sharp, sterilized shears to make a clean, diagonal cut about one-half inch below a chosen leaf node. A diagonal cut increases the surface area of the wound, which allows for maximum absorption of water and rooting hormone.
Once the cutting is taken, reduce the size of the remaining leaves to manage moisture loss through transpiration. Since the cutting lacks roots to absorb water, leaving the large leaves intact places a high water demand on the limited resources within the stem. You can cut the large leaves in half horizontally to minimize water evaporation while still allowing the plant to perform photosynthesis.
The cutting can be rooted either in water or in a soil-based medium, with both methods having high success rates if managed correctly. For water rooting, submerge the bottom node of the stem in clean, room-temperature water, ensuring the leaves remain completely above the waterline. The water should be changed every few days to replenish oxygen and prevent microbial growth.
If rooting in a substrate, a well-draining mix of potting soil and perlite is an ideal choice, providing necessary aeration and moisture retention. Plant the prepared cutting into a small pot, gently tamping the soil around the stem to secure it. To create a high-humidity environment beneficial for root initiation, cover the entire pot and cutting with a clear plastic bag, creating a mini-greenhouse effect. Place the cutting in a warm spot that receives bright, indirect light, and roots should begin to form within six to eight weeks.
Advanced Method: Air Layering
Air layering is an alternative technique used when propagating a larger, more mature section of a Fiddle Leaf Fig without the risk of the cutting dying before roots form. This process involves encouraging roots to grow on a branch while it is still attached to the parent plant, guaranteeing a higher survival rate for the resulting new plant. Begin by selecting a healthy, straight section of the stem just below a leaf node.
Using a sharp, clean knife, create a wound by carefully removing a ring of bark approximately one inch wide around the entire circumference of the stem. This action severs the phloem layer, interrupting the downward flow of sugars from the leaves. The accumulation of sugars above the wound signals the plant to produce adventitious roots. Applying a rooting hormone gel or powder to the exposed wood further encourages root tissue development.
The wounded section is then wrapped in a ball of damp, long-fiber sphagnum moss. This moss provides the sterile, moist medium necessary for root growth. Finally, seal the moss ball completely with a layer of clear plastic wrap or foil, securing it tightly at both the top and bottom to lock in moisture and humidity. After two to three months, you should see roots emerging into the moss; once the roots are numerous and established, the branch can be severed just below the moss ball and potted as a new plant.
Establishing the New Plant
The transition from a water or moss environment to soil is a critical period that requires careful management to prevent transplant shock. You will know the new plant is ready to be moved when the roots are robust and measure between two and four inches long. Roots that are shorter than this are often not strong enough to handle the drier conditions of potting soil.
A well-draining potting mix is necessary for the new plant, ideally one amended with perlite or orchid bark to ensure proper aeration and prevent the roots from sitting in overly saturated soil. When transplanting, create a small depression in the soil and gently place the cutting’s roots inside, covering them with soil and firming it lightly around the base. It is helpful to plant the cutting slightly deeper than usual to provide stability until the root system is fully established.
The newly potted plant should be watered thoroughly and placed in a warm location with bright, indirect light, just as it was during the rooting phase. For the first two weeks, keep the soil consistently moist to help the tender water-formed roots acclimate to the denser growing medium. Afterward, gradually transition the plant to a regular watering schedule, allowing the top inch or two of soil to dry out between waterings.