The Ficus benghalensis ‘Audrey,’ also known as the Bengal Fig, is a popular indoor tree, appreciated for its velvety leaves. It can be successfully multiplied using two primary methods to create new specimens from a healthy parent plant. Propagating a Ficus Audrey is an effective way to manage the size and shape of an existing tree. This guide details the steps necessary to clone your Ficus Audrey, covering both the common stem cutting technique and the more specialized air layering approach.
Preparation and Essential Materials
The best time to propagate Ficus Audrey is during its active growth period, typically in late spring or early summer. Successful propagation depends heavily on sanitary practices, so all cutting tools, such as pruners or a sharp knife, must be sterilized with rubbing alcohol. Sterilizing prevents the transfer of pathogens that can cause the cutting to rot before roots form.
Necessary materials include a rooting medium, such as clean water or a well-draining soil mix, often composed of perlite and peat or general houseplant mix. Rooting hormone is highly recommended as it stimulates root development, though it is not strictly required. You will also need plastic bags or domes to create the humid environment crucial for the survival of new cuttings.
Stem Cuttings: The Water and Soil Method
The stem cutting method is the most straightforward technique, using portions of the plant’s current-season growth. Select a healthy, semi-hardwood stem four to six inches long with at least two to three nodes. Use a sterilized tool to make a clean cut immediately below a node, as this area contains concentrated meristematic cells responsible for new root formation.
After taking the cutting, remove the lower leaves to prevent foliage from being submerged or buried, which helps prevent rot. If using rooting hormone powder, moisten the cut end and dip it into the powder, tapping off any excess before planting. Avoid dipping the cutting directly into the original container to maintain sterility.
The cutting can be rooted in water or soil. For water rooting, submerge only the stem and nodes, changing the water every few days to keep it fresh and oxygenated. If rooting in soil, insert the cutting into the moist, well-draining medium and place a clear plastic bag or dome over the container to trap moisture and create a mini-greenhouse. In either medium, place the cutting in bright, indirect light; roots typically develop within a few weeks.
Air Layering: An Alternative Technique
Air layering is reserved for propagating larger, more mature, or woodier branches that may struggle to root as simple cuttings. This technique encourages roots to form on the branch while it remains attached to the parent plant, significantly reducing the risk of shock and increasing the success rate for sizable specimens. The process begins by selecting a healthy stem and carefully removing a ring of bark, about one inch wide, exposing the cambium layer underneath—a process known as girdling.
After wounding, apply rooting hormone directly to the exposed area to encourage root growth. The wounded section must then be immediately covered with a handful of moist sphagnum moss, which provides a sterile, moisture-retentive medium.
Secure the moss tightly around the stem using clear plastic wrap or a small plastic bag to maintain high humidity and prevent drying. Roots will develop within the moss ball over several weeks to a few months, and the clear plastic allows monitoring. Once a substantial root ball is visible, sever the branch from the parent plant just below the newly formed roots.
Transplanting and Acclimation of New Plants
The final stage involves moving the rooted cutting or air-layered branch into a standard growing environment. A water-rooted cutting is ready for potting once its roots are approximately one to two inches long; waiting too long makes the transition to soil more difficult. Pot the new plant in a small container with a fresh, well-draining potting mix, ensuring fragile roots are not damaged.
The period immediately following transplanting is the most vulnerable as the new roots adjust to the soil structure. Keep the soil consistently moist, but never saturated, to prevent root rot while the plant establishes itself. New plants that were rooted under high humidity, such as those kept under a plastic dome, require a slow process of acclimation to the drier air of a typical household.
Acclimation involves gradually reducing the humidity over several days by poking small holes in the plastic cover or briefly removing the dome. This slow transition prevents the sudden shock that can cause the new plant to drop its leaves. Once the new plant shows signs of active growth, such as a new leaf unfurling, it can be treated as a mature Ficus Audrey, placed in bright, indirect light, and fertilized sparingly during the growing season.