The Chinese Money Plant (Pilea peperomioides) is a sought-after houseplant known for its striking and unique appearance. Characterized by circular, glossy green leaves atop slender petioles, it is often nicknamed the Pancake Plant or UFO Plant. This tropical perennial naturally produces small offshoots, making propagation a common and rewarding goal. Multiplying this plant is relatively simple, which is why it is often called the Friendship Plant.
Understanding Leaf Propagation Limitations
Many people search for how to propagate this plant from a single leaf, but this method is highly unreliable for creating a whole new plant. While a detached leaf, even one taken with a small portion of the stem, will readily grow roots in water or soil, it typically develops no further. The leaf cutting lacks the necessary meristematic tissue, or node, required to generate a new stem and subsequent leaves. This rooted leaf is sometimes called a “blind cutting” because it establishes roots but cannot form a complete plant. Successful propagation requires the cutting to contain cells capable of differentiating into all necessary plant structures, making stem or rhizome methods superior.
Propagating Using Offsets (Pups)
The most reliable method for multiplying the Chinese Money Plant is by separating the naturally occurring offsets, also known as pups. These plantlets grow either directly from the main stem or emerge from the soil, connected by an underground rhizome. Allow offsets to grow until they are at least two or three inches tall and have developed a few leaves before separation.
To remove an offset growing in the soil, gently loosen the soil around its base to locate the connection to the rhizome. Use a clean, sharp, sterilized knife to cut the rhizome one to two centimeters away from the pup, retaining any existing roots. If the pup is growing from the main stem above the soil line, slice it off as close to the main stalk as possible.
If the separated pup has a good set of roots, plant it directly into its own small container of soil. Plantlets with few or no roots should be placed in a glass of water until roots at least one inch long have developed. Change the water every few days to maintain freshness; this process usually takes a few weeks.
Propagating Using Stem Cuttings
If the mature plant is not producing offsets, or if the main plant has become tall and leggy, use a stem cutting. This involves cutting off the top portion of the plant to create a new cutting and promote bushier growth on the remaining base. A healthy stem cutting should be three to four inches long and must include at least one node, the point where a leaf meets the stem.
Before placing the cutting into water, remove any lower leaves that would be submerged, as they will rot and foul the container. Place the cutting in a narrow container of clean water, ensuring the cut end and the node are fully submerged. Roots will begin to emerge from the node within two to four weeks. Placing the water vessel in bright, indirect light will encourage faster root development.
Transitioning Cuttings to Soil
Once offsets or stem cuttings have developed roots one to two inches long, they are ready to be moved into a permanent growing medium. The ideal soil mix is well-draining, achieved by blending a standard indoor potting mix with amendments like perlite or cactus soil. This combination prevents compaction and excessive moisture retention, which can lead to root issues.
Plant the newly rooted cutting in a small container, preferably no larger than three or four inches in diameter, ensuring the pot has drainage holes. After planting, water the soil thoroughly until water runs out the bottom of the pot. For the first one to two weeks, keep the soil consistently moist, but not saturated, to help the delicate new roots adjust to the solid medium. Place the newly potted plant in a spot that receives bright, indirect light, as direct sun can scorch the tender leaves.