The Chinese Lantern Plant, known botanically as Physalis alkekengi, is a perennial admired for its unique, papery husks that mature into a vibrant, pumpkin-orange color in autumn. These distinctive calyxes surround a berry and provide exceptional ornamental interest, making the species a favorite for dried floral arrangements and fall decor. The plant’s hardy nature and ease of propagation mean that gardeners can readily multiply their stock. Successfully creating new plants relies on understanding the two primary methods: dividing the existing root structure or sowing seeds.
Propagating Through Root Division
Propagating Physalis alkekengi via root division is the quickest method to establish new, genetically identical plants. This process is best performed in early spring as new growth begins to emerge.
An established plant utilizes underground stems, called rhizomes, to spread and form new shoots. To begin, carefully use a shovel to lift the entire plant or a portion of the root mass out of the ground.
Once the root ball is exposed, gently tease apart the mass or use a sharp, sterile knife to cut sections of the rhizome. Each separated piece must contain a portion of the root system and at least one healthy growth bud or shoot for successful establishment.
Immediately replant these divisions into well-draining, moist soil at the same depth they were previously growing. The new sections require consistent moisture until visible signs of growth appear above the soil, indicating the root system has established itself.
Starting New Plants from Seed
Starting Chinese Lantern Plants from seed is a practical alternative for cultivating a large quantity. Seeds are found inside the small fruit enclosed within the iconic orange husks and should be collected once fully dried and papery. The seeds benefit from cold stratification, which mimics winter conditions to help break dormancy and improve germination rates.
To stratify, place the seeds in a moist paper towel inside a sealed plastic bag and refrigerate them for 14 to 30 days before planting. Sowing seeds indoors about six to eight weeks before the last expected frost date provides the best head start. Use a sterile seed-starting mix and barely cover the seeds with soil, planting them no deeper than one-quarter inch, as light aids in their sprouting.
The soil temperature must remain consistently warm, ideally between 70 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit, for the seeds to sprout effectively. Seedlings should emerge within two to four weeks. Once the danger of frost has passed and the seedlings have developed their first set of true leaves, they can be hardened off and transplanted outdoors.
Managing New Growth and Spread
Following transplantation, ensure the soil remains evenly moist for both newly set divisions and seedlings during their initial growing season. The Chinese Lantern Plant tolerates a range of light conditions, from full sun to partial shade, and thrives in well-draining soil. It typically requires minimal, if any, fertilization in the first year.
The primary management concern is the plant’s aggressive spread, which occurs through underground rhizomes and by self-seeding. To effectively contain the plant, consider planting it within a large container, such as a five-gallon pot, and then burying the pot in the garden soil. This physical barrier restricts the rhizomes from spreading into surrounding garden beds.
A second method of control is to consistently harvest the bright orange lanterns before they fully open and drop their seeds, preventing unwanted seedlings from taking root. If the plant is established in an uncontained area, vigilantly pulling or mowing down new shoots that emerge away from the main clump can starve the spreading rhizomes over time.