The Blushing Philodendron, Philodendron erubescens, is a highly sought-after houseplant recognized for its deep red stems and glossy, heart-shaped leaves. Its vining habit and striking coloration make it a popular addition to indoor collections worldwide. Propagating this aroid is a straightforward process that allows enthusiasts to expand their collection or share the plant. This guide details the methods for successfully creating new plants from a healthy parent specimen.
Selecting and Preparing Stem Cuttings
Successful propagation begins with selecting a healthy section of the vine that contains a node. The node is the joint on the stem where a leaf emerges and where the plant’s meristematic cells are concentrated, making it the site from which new roots will sprout. For the best chance of success, look for a section that includes an existing aerial root, which is a small, brown nub protruding from the node.
Using sharp, sterilized shears or a knife prevents the introduction of pathogens. Make a clean, angled cut about one-half inch below a node, ensuring the cutting has at least one to two nodes and one healthy leaf remaining at the top. Remove any leaves that would be submerged in the rooting medium, as they will quickly decay and rot the cutting. Optionally, the freshly cut end can be dipped into a powdered rooting hormone to stimulate faster root development before planting.
Rooting Cuttings in Different Mediums
Two primary methods are effective for encouraging root growth from a Blushing Philodendron cutting. Water propagation is popular because it provides visual confirmation of root development, typically within two to four weeks. Place the prepared cutting in a clear vessel of water, ensuring at least one node is submerged while keeping all leaves above the water line to avoid rot. The water should be replaced every few days to maintain oxygenation and prevent the buildup of bacteria or algae.
Alternatively, rooting the cutting directly in a solid medium, such as moist sphagnum moss or an airy potting mix, often results in a more robust root system that experiences less transplant shock. The roots that form are already acclimated to a less hydrated environment. A mixture of perlite and moist coco coir or sphagnum moss provides excellent aeration, which helps prevent rot. Keep the medium consistently moist, but never soggy, and place the container in a warm location with bright, indirect light.
Transitioning Cuttings to Permanent Soil
Once the cutting has successfully developed a root system, it is ready to be moved into a permanent pot. For cuttings rooted in water, the ideal time for transfer is when the new roots are approximately one to two inches long. Water-grown roots are softer and more brittle than soil-grown roots, which necessitates a gradual hardening-off process to prevent transplant shock.
Hardening Off Water Roots
To harden the cutting, mix a small amount of the permanent potting mix into the water over a few days, or transfer the cutting to sphagnum moss for a week before potting.
Potting the New Plant
The permanent soil should be an airy, well-draining aroid mix, composed of potting soil blended with materials like orchid bark, perlite, and charcoal to ensure proper drainage and root aeration. After potting, the new plant requires increased care. Maintain the potting mix in a slightly moist state and provide higher humidity levels to help the delicate roots adjust to their new substrate.