The Bear Paw Succulent (Cotyledon tomentosa) is a popular houseplant prized for its distinctive foliage. Its thick, fleshy leaves are covered in soft, white hairs, giving them a fuzzy texture that resembles a bear’s paw, complete with reddish-brown “claws” at the tips. Propagating this shrub-like succulent is a rewarding process for enthusiasts looking to expand their collection. While propagation can be accomplished through seeds, the most common and effective methods involve taking cuttings from the mature plant.
Selecting the Best Propagation Material
Two primary methods exist for multiplying the Bear Paw Succulent: using stem cuttings or leaf cuttings. Stem cuttings are the preferred and most reliable technique, offering a higher success rate and a faster path to a mature plant. Propagation from a single leaf is possible, but it is difficult for this species and often results in failure. This is because the leaf often cannot generate a new plantlet without a portion of the stem tissue.
When preparing to propagate, always select material that is plump, firm, and shows no signs of disease or pest damage. For stem cuttings, choose a healthy, non-woody section of the mother plant that will provide a cutting two to four inches long. If attempting leaf propagation, choose a mature, healthy leaf and ensure the break is clean. New roots and growth emerge from the tissue remaining at the leaf base.
Step by Step Guide for Stem Cuttings
The process begins with making a clean cut on a healthy stem using sterilized pruning shears or a sharp knife. Sterilizing your tool with rubbing alcohol prevents the transfer of pathogens to the open wound of the mother plant and the cutting. Aim to make the cut just below a node, which is the swollen area where a set of leaves attaches to the stem.
After separating the cutting, remove the bottom one or two pairs of leaves to expose about an inch of bare stem. This exposed portion is where the new roots will form, and removing the leaves prevents them from rotting once buried in the soil. The cut end must then be allowed to dry completely in a shaded, well-ventilated area for two to seven days. This drying period allows a protective, hardened layer, called a callus, to form over the wound. The callus defends against fungal infection and rot when the cutting is planted.
Once the callus has formed, the stem cutting is ready to be planted in a pot filled with a well-draining cactus and succulent mix. Insert the calloused end of the stem into the dry soil, ensuring the lower leaves sit just above the surface. Resist the urge to water at this stage, as the lack of moisture encourages the cutting to expend energy on root production.
Step by Step Guide for Leaf Cuttings
Propagating Cotyledon tomentosa from a leaf requires care due to the low chance of success. The leaf must be removed with a gentle wiggling motion to ensure the entire base, the point of attachment to the stem, is detached without tearing. A successful “clean pull” is necessary because the meristematic tissue for root and shoot formation is concentrated at this junction.
The detached leaf must be left to callous for one to five days, similar to stem cuttings. This drying time allows the wound to seal, minimizing the risk of moisture-related decay. After the base has hardened, the leaf is laid flat on the surface of a well-draining, dry substrate, or the calloused tip can be lightly inserted into the soil.
Care Requirements for New Propagations
After planting, all new cuttings require patience before they establish roots. Place the pots in a location that receives bright, indirect light, such as a few feet away from a sunny window. Direct, intense sunlight can cause unrooted cuttings to scorch or dehydrate rapidly, as they cannot draw moisture from the soil.
Watering must be withheld completely during the initial rooting phase, which takes approximately three to four weeks. The stored moisture within the cutting’s fleshy tissue provides the resource for initial root development. Once a gentle tug reveals resistance, indicating root formation, you can begin a light watering schedule.
Transition to the standard succulent “soak and dry” method. Water thoroughly only after the soil has completely dried out. This infrequent but deep watering encourages the root system to grow stronger and deeper. Once the cutting has rooted and is showing new growth, it can be transitioned into a permanent pot and treated as a mature plant.