Raccoons are highly adaptable, intelligent, nocturnal mammals that thrive in urban and suburban environments by exploiting accessible food and secure shelter. They are primarily driven onto residential properties by the promise of an easy meal or a dry, protected den site. Proactively excluding these animals requires removing attractants from the property and physically fortifying vulnerable structures. The most effective long-term strategy involves a multi-layered approach focusing on deterrence and physical barriers.
Eliminating Primary Attractants
The foundation of any successful prevention strategy is the complete removal of outside food sources, which are the initial draw for raccoons. Garbage cans are a frequent target due to the strong odors of food waste. To secure them, homeowners should invest in cans with locking mechanisms or use heavy-duty bungee cords looped through the handles and across the lid.
Storing trash cans in a secured garage or shed until the morning of collection is the most effective defense. If outdoor storage is necessary, regularly cleaning the cans with a mild detergent reduces lingering food odors. Furthermore, any pet food and water left outside overnight must be brought indoors. Raccoons are omnivores that readily consume kibble, and they will return consistently once they locate this reliable food source.
Raccoons are also attracted to sources beyond trash and pet bowls, including bird feeders and fruit trees. Bird feeders should be either taken down at dusk or modified with specialized baffles that are too large or slippery for a raccoon to climb. Using bird seed treated with capsaicin, a compound birds cannot taste but mammals find irritating, can also discourage foraging at the feeder. Diligently collect any fallen fruit from trees and manage compost piles by keeping them in secured, closed containers rather than open heaps.
Securing Vulnerable Entry Points
Once food is secured, the next defense involves physically preventing raccoons from using the home for shelter, as they often seek out warm, dry den sites for raising their young. Raccoons can fit through surprisingly small openings, so a thorough inspection of the building’s exterior is necessary. This involves checking for damaged siding, loose roof shingles, and any gaps around the foundation or crawl space vents.
Any opening greater than about four inches wide should be physically sealed with materials that raccoons cannot tear or chew through. The material of choice for exclusion is galvanized hardware cloth, specifically a heavy-duty option with half-inch mesh openings and a gauge of 19 or lower. This material is significantly more robust than flexible chicken wire, which a determined raccoon can easily pull apart.
Structures like decks, porches, and sheds offer ideal, sheltered den locations and require a specific method of fortification. The “L-footer” technique is highly effective for these ground-level areas. This involves burying the hardware cloth vertically for 6 to 12 inches and then bending the remaining mesh outward at a 90-degree angle, extending it horizontally for at least a foot. If a raccoon attempts to dig down next to the structure, it will encounter this horizontal barrier and abandon its effort. Chimneys must be capped with durable hardware cloth to prevent entry from above, and attic and wall vents should be similarly screened to eliminate access to the home’s interior.
Implementing Sensory Deterrents
After removing attractants and sealing physical access points, supplementary sensory deterrents can be used to make the environment unpleasant for any remaining curious raccoons. These methods rely on startling the animal or irritating its senses of smell and touch.
Motion-activated sprinkler systems, often called hydro-deterrents, deliver a sudden burst of water when triggered by movement. This unexpected spray startles the nocturnal animals without causing them harm, conditioning them to avoid the protected area. Motion-activated floodlights can momentarily blind or disorient a raccoon, deterring it from lingering near the house.
Strong scents that raccoons naturally avoid can be applied around areas of concern, though they require frequent reapplication. Ammonia-soaked rags placed near potential entryways can mimic the scent of a predator’s urine, signaling danger to the raccoon. Capsaicin-based sprays, derived from chili peppers, are commercially available and create an unpleasant taste or sensation on contact. These sensory methods are generally only effective as a second line of defense after food and shelter have been addressed.
What to Do If a Raccoon is Already Present
If a raccoon has already established a den in an attic, chimney, or under a deck, the first step is to confirm that no animals are currently trapped before sealing the entry point. A simple method is to loosely stuff newspaper or sprinkle a layer of flour at the suspected entrance and check for disturbances the next morning. If the material remains untouched for two to three nights, the animal has likely left the den site.
Never attempt to handle a raccoon, as they may bite or scratch when cornered. Raccoons carry several serious health risks, most notably rabies and the roundworm Baylisascaris procyonis. The roundworm eggs are shed in raccoon feces and can remain infectious in the environment for years, posing a risk of severe neurological disease if accidentally ingested by humans or pets. Raccoon latrines, which are communal defecation sites often found on flat surfaces like rooftops, should be avoided entirely.
Any raccoon exhibiting unusual behavior, such as staggering, making strange noises, or appearing during the daytime, may be rabid and must be reported immediately to animal control. For confirmed den presence, the safest and most humane course of action is to contact a licensed wildlife removal professional. These experts understand local regulations and possess the specialized equipment required to safely and legally remove the animal and its young, minimizing the risk of trapping or injury.