Lavender, prized for its fragrant flowers, is sensitive to relocation. Transplant shock occurs when the root system is disturbed and moved to a new environment. This process disrupts the fine root hairs responsible for absorbing water and nutrients. Successfully moving a lavender plant requires careful preparation and responsive aftercare to minimize this stress and ensure a smooth transition.
Recognizing the Signs of Transplant Shock
Transplant shock typically manifests within a few days to a couple of weeks following the move. The first and most common symptom is wilting, where the foliage droops despite the soil being adequately moist. This wilting occurs because damaged roots cannot absorb water fast enough to keep up with the plant’s transpiration rate.
Water management is challenging because root rot from overwatering can cause similar wilting symptoms to underwatering. Other signs include leaf browning, yellowing, or scorch, often starting at the tips or edges of the leaves. In severe cases, the plant may exhibit sudden leaf drop or stunting, indicating it is struggling to establish new feeder roots and re-balance its internal water flow.
Preventing Transplant Shock
Preventing transplant shock begins well before the move, focusing on minimizing root trauma and providing an ideal environment. The new planting location must replicate lavender’s native habitat, requiring a minimum of six to eight hours of direct sunlight daily. Amending the soil for maximum porosity is necessary, as lavender demands excellent drainage. Heavy clay soils should be mixed with coarse sand, gravel, or organic matter to ensure water never pools around the roots.
The day before the transplant, thoroughly water the plant to hydrate the tissues and make the root ball cohesive. This pre-watering helps the soil stick tightly to the roots, minimizing fine root loss during excavation. If the plant is moving from a protected indoor environment, it should be gradually acclimated, or “hardened off,” to outdoor conditions over one to two weeks.
When moving the plant, keep the root ball as intact as possible. Dig a wide circle around the base to capture a substantial portion of the root system, using a pitchfork or shovel to gently lift the mass. If the plant is container-grown and root-bound, gently tease the circling roots apart to encourage outward growth into the new soil.
The transplant hole should be two to three times wider than the root ball, but only as deep as the root ball itself. Plant the lavender at the same depth it was previously growing to prevent the crown from being buried, which can lead to stem rot. Once settled, immediately water the area thoroughly to eliminate air pockets and settle the soil firmly against the root hairs.
Post-Transplant Care and Recovery
If a lavender plant shows signs of shock, remedial actions can significantly improve its chances of recovery. The initial focus should be on reducing the plant’s water demand, which is accomplished by lightly pruning back the foliage. Removing about one-third of the plant’s top growth, especially damaged or dead leaves, helps balance the root system’s reduced capacity to take up moisture.
Water management during recovery requires consistent hydration, but the plant cannot tolerate saturated soil. The soil should be kept consistently moist for the first few weeks, but ensure it dries out slightly between each watering to prevent root rot. Checking the soil moisture by inserting a finger a few inches deep is a reliable way to gauge when re-watering is necessary.
Providing temporary environmental modification can alleviate stress on the recovering plant. Shielding the lavender with a shade cloth or temporary structure during the hottest part of the day reduces water lost through transpiration. This temporary shade allows the plant to focus energy on growing new roots rather than struggling to cool its existing leaves.
Avoid applying fertilizer immediately after transplanting, as the high salt content can draw moisture away from the already stressed roots, worsening the shock. Wait until the plant shows clear signs of new, healthy growth before considering a light application of a low-nitrogen fertilizer. Applying a thin layer of gravel or stone mulch around the base can also help by reflecting heat and improving drainage, mimicking the plant’s arid native conditions.