Taro root, also known as dasheen or eddo, is a tropical perennial plant (Colocasia esculenta) cultivated primarily for its starchy underground corm. This ancient crop serves as a staple food across many regions globally, prized for its nutty flavor and easy digestibility once cooked. Growing taro successfully requires simulating its native warm, humid habitat. This guide provides detailed steps for cultivating this root from preparation to harvest.
Preparing the Taro Corms for Planting
Successful cultivation begins with the planting material, typically a piece of the corm or a small offshoot. The most common material is a “headsett,” which is the top portion of the main corm with the leaf stems cut back. This set should include the top one or two inches of the corm base and six to eight inches of the attached petioles, or leaf stalks.
If only a large corm is available, cut it into smaller sections, ensuring each piece contains at least one visible bud or growing point. Before planting, allow the cut surfaces to dry and form a protective layer, a process known as curing. Curing helps prevent rot in the moist soil. Smaller side corms, called cormels or suckers, can also be used whole.
Essential Environmental Requirements
Taro is a tropical plant that thrives in heat and requires a long growing season. It needs a minimum of 200 frost-free days to fully mature its corms, with ideal temperatures consistently between 77°F and 95°F. While taro tolerates partial shade, full sun exposure is necessary for maximum corm development.
The soil must be rich, heavily organic, and slightly acidic, with a preferred pH range of 5.5 to 6.5. Although taro requires abundant water, the cultivation method determines the necessary soil structure. Dryland taro is grown in well-draining, moisture-retentive loamy soil, which must be kept consistently saturated but not waterlogged. Wetland taro is grown in paddies or low-lying areas intentionally flooded with standing water.
Step-by-Step Planting Guide
Prepare the planting site by deeply working the soil and incorporating aged compost or manure to ensure high fertility and moisture retention. If using the dryland method, plant the prepared corm sets in trenches or on slightly raised mounds. Mounding aids in drainage and aeration, which is useful in areas with heavy clay soil.
Plant the prepared corms or headsetts shallowly, with the bud or growing point oriented upward. The planting depth should be two to four inches, just enough to cover the corm set with soil. Space plants 18 to 24 inches apart to allow for the development of the main corm and its offshoots.
For gardeners in cooler regions, planting in large containers, at least 20 inches deep, allows the plants to be moved indoors when temperatures drop. The initial watering should saturate the soil completely, establishing the consistently moist environment taro demands. Covering the soil surface with a thick layer of organic mulch after planting helps suppress weeds and maintain soil moisture.
Ongoing Cultivation and Harvest
Taro is a heavy feeder and requires frequent nutrient replenishment throughout its long growing cycle. Apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer at planting time for initial growth. Supplement this every four to six weeks with a high-nitrogen or high-potassium organic liquid feed to support leaf production and corm bulking.
Consistent water delivery is necessary; the soil must never be allowed to dry out, especially during peak summer months. Weed control is important during the first three to four months after planting, before the large leaves form a dense canopy. Prompt removal of weeds prevents them from stealing water and nutrients.
Harvest time typically ranges from seven to twelve months, depending on the variety and local climate conditions. The primary indication that the corms are ready is when the large leaves begin to turn yellow and die back. This signals the plant is shifting its energy completely to the underground storage organs. To harvest, use a garden fork to carefully loosen the soil around the base of the plant, then lift the entire corm cluster without damaging the mature root.