Bare-root strawberries are dormant plants, consisting of a bundle of roots and a woody stem known as the crown, typically sold in bundles during the early spring planting season. This method is popular because it is significantly more cost-effective than purchasing potted plants, allowing a gardener to start a large patch without a substantial investment. Furthermore, ordering bare-root stock often provides access to a wider selection of specialized cultivars not available at a local nursery. Although they may look lifeless upon arrival, these dormant plants are the foundation for a productive strawberry patch. A successful harvest begins with a precise, step-by-step approach to planting, ensuring the plants establish a strong root system in their first season.
Pre-Planting Preparation
Strawberry plants flourish in full sun, requiring at least six hours of direct sunlight daily to produce a good yield. The soil must be well-drained, as strawberries are susceptible to root rot if they sit in saturated conditions. Loamy soil is preferred, ideally with a slightly acidic pH between 5.5 and 7.0.
Amending the soil is necessary to ensure long-term plant health, since strawberries will remain in the same location for several years. Incorporate a generous amount of organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure, into the top six to twelve inches of the bed. Working about three inches of compost into the soil provides the necessary nutrients and improves both drainage and moisture retention. Adequate soil preparation gives the newly planted roots the best possible environment to establish themselves quickly.
Once the planting site is ready, the bare roots require a conditioning step immediately before planting. The dormant roots should be gently untangled and submerged in lukewarm water to rehydrate them. Soaking the roots for 20 to 60 minutes helps them recover from shipping and prepares them for immediate root growth upon planting. A soak time of no more than two hours is recommended to avoid drowning the roots.
The Bare-Root Planting Technique
The planting process for bare-root strawberries is sensitive to depth, making precision in this step crucial for plant survival. The crown is the short, woody stem located where the roots meet the leaf buds, and it is the plant’s central growing point. Planting too deep will cause the crown to rot, while planting too shallowly will expose the roots to drying out and potential damage.
To prepare the planting site, dig a hole wide enough to accommodate the roots without bending or crowding them. If the roots are excessively long, they can be trimmed back to about six inches to encourage new root growth and better contact with the soil. Creating a small mound of soil in the center of the hole helps position the plant correctly.
The plant is then placed over the mound, allowing the roots to spread out naturally down the sides. The final position must ensure that the bottom of the crown is flush with the soil surface. Backfill the hole carefully with soil, firming it gently around the roots to eliminate any air pockets. The top of the crown should remain completely exposed to the air, sitting exactly at the soil line.
Essential Post-Planting Care
Immediate and consistent moisture management is essential for the establishment of newly planted bare-root strawberries. After planting, a thorough and deep watering is necessary to settle the soil around the roots and remove any remaining air pockets. This initial watering helps mitigate transplant shock and initiates the growth process.
The soil must be kept consistently moist during the first few weeks as the plants establish their new root systems, but it should never be saturated or waterlogged. Overwatering can lead to root rot. New leaf growth should begin to appear within two to three weeks, indicating that the roots are actively taking up water.
Applying a layer of organic mulch, such as clean straw or pine needles, immediately after planting helps maintain consistent soil moisture. Mulch also keeps the soil temperature cool and suppresses weed growth, which would otherwise compete with the strawberries for nutrients and water. Maintaining a thin, consistent layer of mulch ensures the roots remain cool and prevents the bare soil from drying out quickly.
First-Year Flower and Runner Management
A successful strawberry patch requires patience to forego a harvest in the first year to ensure future productivity. The first-year care involves removing all flowers that emerge from the newly planted crowns. Pinching off these blossoms as soon as they appear forces the plant to divert its energy from reproductive efforts to vegetative growth.
This redirection of energy focuses on developing a deep, robust root system and a strong crown. A plant allowed to fruit in its first year will produce a small harvest and be weakened, leading to diminished yields in subsequent seasons. Sacrificing the first year’s fruit is an investment that pays off with stronger plants and a more abundant harvest in the second and third years.
Runners, which are horizontal stems that produce new plantlets, should also be managed during this establishment year. For June-bearing varieties, a few runners may be allowed to root to gradually fill in the row, but the majority should be clipped off to conserve the parent plant’s energy. Day-neutral and everbearing varieties typically produce fewer runners, and these should be removed completely to maximize the plant’s focus on building a strong crown for future production.