How to Plant Shrubs in Front of Your House

Planting shrubs near your home improves the property’s appearance and creates a welcoming entrance. Selecting and installing these foundation plants requires proper horticultural technique for long-term health and aesthetic appeal. A successful planting requires careful consideration of the shrub’s mature size and the soil conditions of the site. This guide walks you through the steps for planting shrubs in front of your house, from selection to initial establishment.

Choosing Shrubs for Curb Appeal

Selecting the appropriate shrub species is the first and most lasting decision in foundation planting. The most frequent error is underestimating a plant’s ultimate size, which leads to excessive pruning, blocked windows, or damage to the home’s siding. Always research the mature height and width of a cultivar, choosing one that will naturally fit the space with minimal intervention.

For instance, a shrub maturing to six feet wide should have its center trunk situated at least three feet from the foundation. This allows the foliage to extend outward without touching the house. Matching a shrub’s light needs to the specific exposure of your home’s front is equally important for plant vigor. An area receiving less than four hours of direct sun requires a shade-tolerant variety, while six or more hours requires a full-sun plant.

Aesthetic considerations should focus on creating year-round interest and texture. Deciduous shrubs offer seasonal flowers and fall color, while evergreens provide a constant backdrop of foliage, valuable during winter months. Layering plants with different heights, leaf textures, and colors adds depth to the landscape design.

Site Preparation and Spacing

Before purchasing plants, evaluate the existing soil composition to ensure adequate drainage. Heavy clay soils accumulate water and may suffocate roots, while sandy soils drain too quickly and fail to retain moisture. Incorporating organic matter, like compost, improves the structure of both soil types, enhancing aeration in clay and increasing water retention in sand.

Proper spacing from the foundation prevents moisture buildup on the siding, which can lead to structural or pest issues. Plant the shrub’s center at a distance equal to at least half of its mature spread, plus an additional foot for an air gap. For example, a shrub with a mature width of five feet should be planted at a minimum of three and a half feet from the foundation wall.

Mark the precise location for each shrub before digging, ensuring sufficient space for them to reach their full size. To achieve a dense, continuous look, the distance between shrubs should be the sum of half the mature spread of each adjacent plant. For a more defined, individual appearance, add a foot or more to this calculation.

The Planting Technique

The planting hole must be dug wide and shallow to support the horizontal growth pattern of shrub roots. Dig the hole two to three times the width of the root ball, but only as deep as the root ball itself. This wide excavation ensures the roots can easily spread into loosened, native soil, rather than remaining trapped in compacted sides.

Before placing the shrub, locate the root flare, the point where the main trunk widens just above the roots. Excess soil covering this flare must be removed, as planting too deep leads to stem rot and girdling roots. The root flare should sit slightly above or level with the surrounding finished grade to allow for settling.

If the shrub is container-grown, inspect the root ball for circling roots. These must be severed or gently untangled and spread outward before planting. Use a knife or pruners to make several vertical cuts one inch deep along the sides of the root ball to encourage outward growth. Backfill the hole with the original soil, tamping gently to remove large air pockets, and ensure the shrub remains upright.

Establishing the New Shrubs

Immediately after planting, a thorough, deep watering is required to settle the soil around the roots and eliminate air pockets. This initial saturation is essential for hydrating the plant and minimizing transplant shock. The goal is to soak the entire root zone and the newly backfilled soil.

Following the initial watering, maintain a consistent moisture level while the roots establish themselves. For the first two weeks, check the soil daily and water deeply if the top few inches feel dry. After this period, the frequency can be reduced to every two to four days for the next several weeks, depending on the weather and soil type.

Apply a two- to three-inch layer of organic mulch over the planting area, keeping it pulled back several inches from the root flare and trunk. Mulch helps moderate soil temperature, reduces water evaporation, and suppresses weed growth. Watering is best done in the early morning to reduce water loss and allow foliage to dry before nightfall, which helps prevent diseases.