The initial planting technique significantly influences a young tree’s ability to survive the stressful transition from the nursery to a new location. Proper planning and execution ensure the roots have the best opportunity to grow outward and anchor the tree. A correctly planted sapling establishes itself faster, leading to healthy, vigorous growth and a stronger defense against environmental stresses.
Preparing the Sapling and Planting Site
Selecting the optimal location is the first step toward ensuring the sapling’s long-term health. Consider the mature size of the species, ensuring it has enough space to grow without interfering with structures, utility lines, or pipes. The site should offer adequate sunlight according to the species requirements and feature soil with good drainage to prevent waterlogging.
The best time to plant is typically during the dormant season, either in the early spring before bud break or in the fall after leaf drop, as this minimizes transplant shock. Bare-root saplings benefit from soaking their roots in water for a few hours to rehydrate them before planting.
For containerized or balled-and-burlapped stock, inspect the root ball for circling roots that can eventually girdle or choke the tree’s trunk. Use a sharp tool to cut or tease out any circling roots to encourage them to grow straight outward into the surrounding soil. This is also the time to locate the root flare, the point where the trunk widens just before the roots begin, often requiring the removal of excess soil from the top of the root ball.
Step-by-Step Planting Techniques
The planting hole should be wide, generally two to three times the diameter of the root ball, but only as deep as the distance from the bottom of the root ball to the exposed root flare. Digging a wide hole creates a zone of loosened soil that allows new roots to easily spread horizontally, which is where most tree roots naturally grow to absorb water and nutrients.
Planting a tree too deeply is one of the most common causes of premature tree decline. The root flare must sit at or slightly above the finished soil grade, usually by one to two inches, because the disturbed soil will settle after watering. If the hole is dug too deep, remove the sapling and pack additional soil firmly into the bottom to prevent the root ball from sinking later.
Once the sapling is placed in the hole, check the root flare’s position relative to the surrounding soil line from multiple angles to ensure the trunk is straight. Any materials like wire baskets, plastic containers, or synthetic burlap must be completely removed, and natural burlap should be cut away from the top and sides of the root ball. Leaving these materials in place can restrict future root growth and trunk expansion.
Begin backfilling the hole using the original soil that was removed, and avoid adding soil amendments unless the native soil is exceptionally poor. Adding organic matter only to the backfill can discourage roots from extending past the nutrient-rich confines of the planting hole. As you backfill, lightly tamp the soil to eliminate large air pockets, ensuring good contact between the roots and the surrounding earth.
Establishing the Newly Planted Sapling
Thoroughly water the newly planted sapling to settle the soil around the roots and remove any remaining small air pockets. This initial watering helps reduce transplant shock and provides immediate moisture for the roots. Continue a regular watering schedule for the first few weeks, gradually decreasing frequency as the tree establishes itself, but always ensuring the soil remains moist, not saturated.
Applying a layer of organic mulch helps retain soil moisture, regulates soil temperature, and suppresses competing weed growth. Spread the mulch in a donut shape two to four inches deep, extending outward from the trunk, but avoid piling it directly against the tree trunk. Piling mulch against the trunk, often referred to as a “mulch volcano,” traps excessive moisture against the bark, which can lead to fungal growth, decay, and the development of destructive circling roots.
Staking a young sapling is discouraged because trunk movement helps the tree develop a stronger root system. If the tree is in a high-wind area or has a canopy disproportionately large for its root ball, staking should be done loosely with flexible material and removed after one year to prevent girdling the trunk. Finally, protect the base of the tree from physical damage by installing a trunk guard to deter rodents and prevent injury from lawn mowers or string trimmers.