Native grasses are plant species naturally adapted to a specific region, offering a sustainable alternative to traditional lawns by requiring less water and fertilizer. These hardy plants provide ecological benefits, creating habitat for local wildlife and stabilizing the soil. Successfully establishing a thriving native lawn requires careful attention, from selecting the right seed to managing the new planting during its slow establishment phase.
Selecting Seed and Timing
Choosing the correct seed involves selecting both the species and the timing of the planting. The greatest chance of success comes from selecting local ecotypes, which are seeds harvested from plants adapted to the specific soil, climate, and precipitation patterns of your immediate area. Using local provenance seed ensures the grasses are genetically suited to thrive without intensive management.
Native grasses can be planted during two primary windows: the active growing season or the dormant season. Active season planting occurs in early spring (mid-March to mid-May) when soil temperatures reach a minimum of 50 degrees Fahrenheit and moisture is plentiful. Dormant seeding involves sowing the seed in late fall or early winter after the soil temperature has dropped below 40 degrees Fahrenheit.
Dormant seeding is often preferred because it mimics natural seed dispersal and allows seeds to undergo cold stratification over the winter. This cold, moist conditioning breaks the seed’s dormancy, resulting in a flush of germination when favorable spring conditions arrive. Ensure the ground is cold enough to prevent premature germination that could be killed by a subsequent hard freeze.
Preparing the Seedbed
Successful native grass establishment relies heavily on thorough seedbed preparation, primarily focused on eliminating competing weeds. Weeds are the most common cause of planting failure because their rapid growth easily shades out slow-growing native seedlings. Ideally, site preparation begins up to a year before planting to deplete the existing weed seed bank in the soil.
Weed control can be achieved chemically or non-chemically. Chemical control involves applying a broad-spectrum herbicide, such as glyphosate, to kill all existing vegetation, followed by repeated applications as new weeds emerge. A non-chemical approach involves repeated tilling: deep tilling initially, followed by shallow tilling (1 to 2 inches) to kill new sprouts. For smaller areas, solarization—smothering the ground with black plastic for a season—can also effectively kill vegetation.
Once weeds are controlled, the soil should be lightly tilled or scarified to loosen the top 3 to 4 inches. All debris, clumps, and rocks must be removed to create a smooth, fine seedbed. The final step involves firming the seedbed, often with a roller, to ensure a light boot print sinks no more than a half-inch deep.
Seed Distribution and Coverage
The distribution method depends on the area size and seed mix. For large-scale projects, a specialized native grass drill is the most efficient tool, as it places the seed precisely. For smaller areas, or when dealing with fluffy seeds like those of big bluestem or Indiangrass, broadcasting is a practical choice.
Fluffy seeds tend to clog spreaders and must be mixed with an inert carrier, such as damp sand or sawdust, to facilitate even distribution. When broadcasting, a higher seeding rate is generally recommended. Divide the seed mix in half and broadcast the first half in one direction, then the second half perpendicular to the first to ensure uniform coverage.
Native grass seed must be planted very shallowly, as small seeds possess limited energy reserves for emergence. The optimal depth is no more than one-quarter inch, with a half-inch being the maximum. After broadcasting, the seed must be lightly incorporated into the soil using a drag or a cultipacker, which presses the seed firmly into the surface to maximize seed-to-soil contact without burying it too deeply.
Initial Maintenance and Establishment
The period immediately following planting requires a specific maintenance regimen to support new seedlings. Consistent moisture in the upper soil layer is necessary for germination, so the seedbed should be kept damp through frequent, short watering cycles. Once seedlings emerge, gradually reduce irrigation frequency to encourage deeper root growth.
During the first year, native grasses focus on developing an extensive, deep root system, meaning visible growth above ground is slow. Faster-growing annual weeds pose a significant threat by competing for sunlight and moisture. The solution is “weeding by mowing,” which suppresses annual weeds without damaging the grasses. Mowing should begin when dominant weeds reach knee height, setting the mower deck high (6 to 8 inches) to clip the tops of the weeds. Repeat this high-mowing process three or more times during the first season to maintain the competitive advantage for the slow-establishing native species.