Myrtle, often referred to as periwinkle or creeping myrtle (Vinca minor or Vinca major), is a highly valued evergreen ground cover known for its durability and glossy foliage. This plant forms a dense mat useful for suppressing weeds and stabilizing soil on slopes, offering effective erosion control. It is notably tolerant of shade, making it a popular choice for planting beneath trees where turfgrass struggles to grow. This guide provides a step-by-step approach to successfully planting myrtle ground cover.
Preparing the Planting Site
Before planting, the designated area must be cleared of all existing vegetation, especially perennial weeds and turfgrass. Any remaining weeds will compete directly with the young myrtle for nutrients and moisture, hindering its establishment.
The soil should be prepared to ensure adequate drainage, as myrtle does not tolerate waterlogged conditions. Amending the area with organic matter, such as a one-inch layer of compost or aged manure, significantly improves soil structure and fertility. This amendment should be tilled into the top few inches of soil to create a favorable rooting environment. Myrtle thrives in partial to full shade, but intense sun exposure may cause the leaves to yellow and reduce the plant’s vigor.
Selecting the Right Plants and Timing
Planting myrtle is best done during periods of moderate temperature to minimize transplant shock and encourage rapid root growth. The ideal times are early spring, after the last hard frost, or early fall, allowing the plant to establish a root system before winter dormancy.
Myrtle is typically purchased as potted nursery plants, cell packs, or field-grown divisions. When selecting specimens, look for plants with lush, dark green foliage and no signs of wilting or disease. If purchasing potted plants, gently check the bottom of the container for signs of healthy, white roots. Avoid any plants that are excessively root-bound.
Installation Techniques and Spacing
Water the myrtle plants thoroughly in their containers before transplanting to ensure the root balls are moist. Dig a hole for each plant that is approximately twice as wide as the root ball but no deeper. This wide hole encourages the roots to spread outward into the surrounding, looser soil.
Carefully remove the plant from its container and gently loosen any tightly bound or circling roots with your fingers, a process called teasing or scoring the root ball. Place the plant in the prepared hole so that the top of the root ball is level with or slightly above the surrounding soil line to prevent water from pooling around the crown. Backfill the hole with the amended soil, lightly tamping it down to remove any air pockets.
Myrtle spreads by sending out trailing stems that root where they touch the soil, so initial spacing depends on how quickly a dense mat is desired. For rapid, full coverage, space the plants or rooted cuttings approximately 6 to 8 inches apart. If a slower establishment rate is acceptable, you can increase the spacing to 12 inches. Close spacing requires a greater initial investment but results in a fully carpeted area much sooner.
Establishing and Maintaining Myrtle
Immediately after planting, water the entire area deeply to settle the soil around the roots and eliminate any remaining air pockets. Consistent moisture is paramount during the first growing season to encourage a deep, robust root system. For the first few weeks, aim to keep the soil consistently moist but never soggy.
Once the myrtle is established, its watering needs decrease significantly, and it becomes drought-tolerant. Applying a thin layer of organic mulch, such as shredded bark or pine needles, helps to conserve soil moisture and suppress new weed growth. Avoid heavy mulching directly over the plant stems, as this prevents the trailing runners from rooting into the soil, which is the plant’s natural method of spreading. Occasional pruning can be performed by lightly trimming the runners to encourage a denser, more uniform mat of foliage.