Laurel, commonly planted as an evergreen hedge for screening and privacy, includes popular varieties like Cherry Laurel (Prunus laurocerasus) and Portuguese Laurel (Prunus lusitanica). These plants possess dense, glossy foliage that establishes a durable barrier when planted correctly. Successfully growing a laurel hedge depends on the initial planting technique and site preparation. This guide provides a sequential approach to ensure your laurel plants establish a strong root system for long-term health.
Selecting the Best Site and Planting Time
Choosing an appropriate location is the first step toward a thriving laurel hedge. Laurel performs best in an area that receives full sun to partial shade, requiring at least four hours of direct sunlight daily. Sufficient light encourages denser foliage and a faster growth rate.
Soil quality is an important consideration, particularly regarding drainage. Laurel is intolerant of waterlogged conditions, which can lead to root rot and plant failure. The ideal medium is fertile, well-drained soil. It can tolerate a range from loamy to slightly clay-based compositions, provided water does not stand for long periods. A slightly acidic to neutral pH (5.5 to 7.5) supports healthy nutrient uptake.
The ideal time to plant laurel is during the dormant season when the plants are under the least stress. This planting window typically falls in early spring, just as the ground thaws, or, preferably, in early autumn. Planting in autumn allows roots to establish themselves in the cool, moist soil before the heat of summer arrives. Container-grown laurels offer more flexibility and can be planted outside this window, but they require more diligent watering.
Preparing the Planting Hole and Root Ball
Once the site and time are selected, preparing the planting area correctly facilitates root growth into the native soil. For a hedge, it is more efficient to dig a continuous trench rather than individual holes. This trench should be two to three times the width of the laurel’s root ball to give new roots plenty of loose soil for expansion.
The depth of the hole or trench should be the same as the height of the root ball. The plant’s crown must sit level with or slightly above the surrounding soil grade. Before placing the plant, break up the soil at the bottom of the hole with a garden fork. This eliminates any compaction layer that might impede drainage or prevent roots from growing downwards.
Preparation of the root ball is often overlooked. If the plant has been growing in its container for a long time, the roots may be tightly circling or matted. Carefully remove the plant and inspect the roots. Gently tease any circling roots outward to encourage them to grow into the native soil. Matted roots can be lightly scored or sliced in a few vertical places with a sharp knife to stimulate new outward growth.
Step-by-Step Guide to Planting Laurel
With the planting site and root ball prepared, set the plant into the prepared hole. Ensure the top of the root ball is flush with the surrounding soil line or just slightly higher. Planting too deeply can lead to stem rot, which is a common cause of failure in newly planted shrubs.
Position the plant so it stands straight, then begin backfilling the trench using the native soil. If the native soil is poor, adding a modest amount of organic compost can improve structure. Avoid heavy use of soil amendments, as this can discourage roots from venturing into the surrounding native soil. Backfilling should happen in layers, gently firming the soil around the root ball.
Firming the soil eliminates air pockets, which can dry out roots and lead to plant death. As you finish backfilling, create a slight, circular berm or raised ring of soil just outside the perimeter of the planting hole. This basin helps direct water over the root zone during irrigation, maximizing the moisture the new plant receives.
Essential Care Immediately After Planting
The moments immediately following planting minimize transplant shock and ensure the plant’s survival. The first action must be a deep and thorough watering, even if the soil appears moist. This initial soaking helps the soil settle completely around the roots, eliminating any remaining air pockets.
After the water has drained, apply a layer of organic mulch, such as bark chips or wood shavings, to the soil surface. Spread the mulch to a depth of two to three inches, extending over the entire backfilled area. Keep the mulch pulled back a few inches from the laurel’s crown or main stem to prevent moisture buildup that could encourage rot.
For the first few weeks, monitor the plants for signs of stress, such as wilting or leaf drop. Consistent moisture is necessary while the plant establishes its roots, but avoid overwatering, as laurel is susceptible to root rot. Water deeply when the top inch or two of soil feels dry to the touch, ensuring the water penetrates the entire root zone.