The hop plant, Humulus lupulus, is a vigorous perennial climber cultivated globally for its cone-shaped flowers, known as hops. Hops contain lupulin, a resin with essential oils and alpha acids that impart bitterness, aroma, and stability for brewing beer. Propagation begins with a hop rhizome, which is a section of the underground stem containing buds that sprout new shoots. Planting rhizomes establishes a long-term, productive hop garden, focusing the plant’s initial energy on developing a strong root system.
Site Selection and Soil Preparation
The long-term success of the hop plant depends heavily on initial site selection. Hops require a location that receives a minimum of six hours of direct sunlight daily to support their rapid, vertical growth. The soil must be loose and well-draining because the root crown is prone to rot if kept constantly soggy. Hops thrive in rich, alluvial or sandy loam soil with a slightly acidic to neutral pH, ideally between 6.0 and 8.0.
Planting should occur in early spring, once the danger of a hard frost has passed and the soil is workable. Preparing the bed involves deeply loosening the soil, often by tilling, to accommodate the deep-reaching root system. Before planting, the soil should be amended with organic matter, such as compost, to enhance both fertility and drainage. Proper preparation ensures the plant can establish itself quickly and vigorously in its first growing season.
Step-by-Step Planting Technique
Upon receiving the rhizomes, keep them moist and cool, usually in a sealed bag in a refrigerator, until planting day to prevent desiccation. Soaking the rhizomes in water for a few hours before planting can help rehydrate the tissues. A small mound or “hill” is often created for single plants to further aid in drainage.
The rhizome is planted shallowly, 1 to 2 inches below the soil surface. The orientation is important: the small buds or “eyes” must face upward toward the soil surface, regardless of whether the rhizome is placed horizontally or vertically. Plant two to three rhizomes per hill to ensure a full plant and account for potential initial losses. Different varieties should be placed at least five to seven feet apart, while identical varieties can be spaced closer to three feet apart. After placing the rhizomes, gently cover them with soil and water the area thoroughly to settle the soil and eliminate air pockets.
Initial Support Structure Setup
Hops are aggressive climbers, or bines, which use stiff, downward-pointing hairs to grip a support structure. Because this rapid growth starts early, the initial support structure must be in place immediately after planting to train the first shoots upward. A simple, temporary solution involves driving a tall stake next to the planting site or setting up a basic tripod of poles.
The bine naturally wraps itself around the support in a clockwise direction, following the sun’s path, which is important to remember when training. Heavy twine or thick wire can be run from the ground up to a high support, such as a fence, pergola, or the eaves of a structure. The structure must be sturdy, as a mature hop plant can grow 15 to 25 feet high in a season and develop significant weight.
First-Season Care and Management
The first season’s focus is on establishing a deep, robust root crown, not maximizing flower production. Consistent soil moisture is necessary, requiring regular watering during dry periods, but the soil should dry slightly between applications to prevent rot. Applying organic mulch around the plant base helps conserve soil moisture and suppresses weed growth.
As the first shoots emerge and reach about one foot in length, a process of selection known as training should be performed. Only the strongest two or three bines per support should be gently wrapped clockwise around the support. All other weak or excess shoots must be cut off at the ground. This culling directs the plant’s energy into a few dominant stems, which will produce the best yield in future years.
Monitoring for common pests, such as spider mites, and avoiding overhead watering, which encourages fungal diseases, are important maintenance tasks. New growers should anticipate a minimal or non-existent harvest in the first year, as the plant reserves its energy for root development. Full production typically begins in the second or third year. Before winter, once the foliage has died back, the bines should be cut down to about two feet above the ground, allowing the root crown to enter dormancy.