Garlic is traditionally planted in the fall for maximum bulb size. Spring planting offers a viable alternative for a summer harvest if the fall window is missed. While spring-planted garlic typically yields smaller bulbs, often resulting in single-clove “rounds” rather than segmented heads, the fresh flavor makes the effort worthwhile. This process requires a specific approach to variety selection, soil preparation, and maintenance for a successful crop.
Selecting Varieties and Preparing the Soil
Successful spring planting requires selecting the right variety and ensuring the cloves receive a necessary cold period. Softneck varieties are generally better suited than hardneck types because they have a lower requirement for vernalization, the cold exposure needed to trigger bulb division. To increase the chances of proper bulb formation, cloves should be cold-treated before planting. This involves storing individual cloves in a refrigerator between 32°F and 40°F for a minimum of 30 to 40 days to simulate winter conditions.
The growing location must receive full sun for at least six to eight hours daily to support leaf growth and bulb development. Garlic is a heavy feeder that requires rich, loose, and well-drained soil to prevent rot. Amending the planting area with several inches of well-rotted compost or manure helps achieve the friable texture that garlic roots thrive in.
A slightly acidic to neutral soil pH (6.0 to 7.0) is optimal for nutrient availability. A soil test confirms the existing pH; lime can be incorporated if the soil is too acidic, while elemental sulfur lowers an overly alkaline reading. Incorporating these amendments a few weeks before planting allows time for the soil chemistry to adjust.
Step-by-Step Planting Process
Planting should occur as soon as the ground is workable in the spring, even if the weather is still cool. Immediately before planting, break the bulb into individual cloves, avoiding damage to the basal plate where the roots will form. Only the largest, healthiest cloves should be planted, as they contain the energy reserves needed to produce the biggest bulbs in the shorter growing season.
Spring-planted garlic requires a shallower depth than fall planting, typically placing cloves one to two inches beneath the soil surface. Each clove must be placed pointed-end up and flat-end down, ensuring the root side contacts the soil. Adequate spacing is important for bulb development, requiring cloves to be spaced four to six inches apart.
After covering the cloves with soil, the area needs a thorough watering to settle the soil and initiate root growth. Applying a light layer of organic mulch, such as straw or chopped leaves, immediately after planting conserves soil moisture and suppresses weed growth. This initial mulching supports the developing root system without hindering emerging shoots.
Seasonal Care and Maintenance
Once shoots emerge, consistent care focuses on moisture, nutrition, and weed control. Garlic requires consistent moisture, especially during late spring and early summer when the plant focuses energy on bulb development. Aim for approximately one inch of water per week, factoring in rainfall, but avoid overwatering, as garlic is susceptible to rot in saturated soil.
Garlic is a heavy feeder, and the shorter spring growing cycle requires an early boost of nitrogen to maximize leaf production. A nitrogen-rich fertilizer, such as blood meal or a balanced organic blend, should be applied as a top dressing once sprouts appear and again a few weeks later. Fertilization must cease by late spring or early summer when the plant shifts energy from leaf growth to bulb formation.
Weeding is a high priority, as garlic does not compete well with surrounding plants for light, water, and nutrients. Hand-pulling weeds is preferable to deep cultivation, which can damage the garlic’s shallow root system. Spring-planted garlic rarely produces scapes (flowering stalks), but if they appear on hardneck varieties, they should be removed to redirect the plant’s energy into maximizing bulb size.
Harvesting the Spring Crop
Spring-planted garlic matures later than fall crops, typically ready for harvest in mid to late summer. The primary indicator of maturity is the yellowing and browning of the lower leaves. The crop is ready when the bottom three to four leaves have died back, but the top four to five leaves remain green, indicating the bulb has finished swelling.
Before harvesting the entire crop, dig up a single test bulb to inspect its development and ensure the outer skin layers have formed around the cloves. Loosen the soil around the plant using a garden fork before gently pulling the bulbs. Pulling by hand without loosening the soil can cause the stem to detach, which reduces the bulb’s storage life.
A successful spring harvest often results in smaller bulbs or non-segmented “rounds,” which are single, large, and perfectly edible cloves. After harvest, gently brush the bulbs clean of excess dirt, but do not wash them; leave the stems and roots intact. Curing is the next step, involving drying the bulbs in a warm, well-ventilated, shaded area for two to three weeks. This process dries the wrappers, seals the flavor, and prepares the garlic for short-term consumption.