Evergreen shrubs offer year-round color and structure to any landscape, providing consistent foliage even through winter. Since these plants are permanent fixtures, their long-term health and vigor depend entirely on correct planting practices. This process begins long before digging, with careful consideration of timing and location.
Optimal Timing and Site Preparation
Planting an evergreen shrub during the correct season minimizes transplant shock and encourages robust root development. The two most favorable periods are late summer to early fall, or early spring before the intense heat of summer arrives. Fall planting is often preferred because cooler air temperatures reduce moisture loss from the foliage, while the soil remains warm enough to promote vigorous root growth before the ground freezes. Planting in spring allows the shrub to establish before the stress of high summer temperatures and dryness.
A thorough site assessment is necessary to choose a location that meets the shrub’s specific needs. Most evergreens prefer full sun (at least six hours of direct sunlight daily), though some varieties tolerate or require partial shade. Good soil drainage is necessary, as evergreens are easily damaged by standing water around their roots. To check drainage, dig a test hole and fill it with water; if it takes longer than 24 hours to drain completely, the site may be prone to waterlogging.
The Essential Steps of Planting
The planting hole should be prepared with dimensions that encourage lateral root spread. Dig the hole at least two to three times wider than the root ball, but ensure it is no deeper than the root ball itself. This shallow depth is important because planting too deep can lead to root and crown diseases. The base of the hole should be firm to prevent the shrub from settling too deeply after planting.
Before placing the shrub in the ground, it is necessary to prepare the root ball, especially if the plant was grown in a container. Circling roots, which restrict nutrient and water uptake, must be addressed by gently loosening and teasing them outward. For tightly bound root balls, use a knife or sharp pruners to score the sides vertically in a few places to encourage roots to grow into the surrounding soil. This physical disruption is a single chance to break the circular growth pattern and allow for proper establishment.
Position the shrub so the root collar (where the trunk widens at the base) is level with or slightly above the surrounding soil grade. Planting slightly high, by about an inch or two, accounts for inevitable soil settling and prevents water from pooling against the trunk, which could cause crown rot. Backfill the hole using the native soil, gently tamping the soil to eliminate large air pockets. Avoid excessive soil amendments, as this can discourage roots from growing into the native landscape.
Immediate Post-Planting Establishment Care
Immediate care focuses on ensuring the shrub settles into its new environment with minimal stress. The first step is a deep, thorough watering to saturate the root zone and settle the soil firmly around the roots. This initial soaking helps eliminate small air pockets that could dry out the root hairs.
After the initial watering, a layer of organic mulch should be applied around the shrub. A depth of two to three inches is sufficient to conserve soil moisture, regulate temperature fluctuations, and suppress weed growth. It is important to keep the mulch several inches away from the trunk or crown of the shrub to prevent moisture buildup, a practice known as avoiding “volcano mulching.”
Newly planted shrubs require consistent moisture to establish a strong root system during the first season. For the first couple of weeks, daily or near-daily watering may be necessary, especially in sandy soils, followed by a reduction to watering every two to three days for the next few months. The goal is deep, infrequent watering that encourages roots to grow down; the soil should be soaked thoroughly and then allowed to dry slightly between applications. Monitoring the soil moisture four to eight inches deep will indicate when the next watering is needed, as overwatering is as damaging as under-watering.