Bermuda grass (Cynodon dactylon) is a widely chosen, warm-season turfgrass known for its exceptional durability and resilience in hot climates. This species thrives in full sun and high temperatures, making it a popular choice for lawns in the southern United States. Its robust nature allows it to withstand significant drought and recover quickly from heavy use once fully established. Successfully planting Bermuda grass requires methodical preparation and specialized initial care to ensure a dense, uniform, and lush lawn.
Preparing the Soil for Success
Achieving a quality Bermuda lawn begins with thorough soil preparation, which must happen well before any planting material is introduced. The first step involves completely clearing the designated area of all existing vegetation, including previous turf and weeds. To ensure complete eradication, a non-selective herbicide, such as a glyphosate-based product, should be applied 10 to 14 days before planting.
Once the existing vegetation is dead, remove it and test the soil to determine its pH and nutrient profile. Bermuda grass generally performs best in a slightly acidic to neutral pH range, ideally between 6.5 and 7.0. The results of the soil test guide necessary amendments, such as lime or sulfur, which should be incorporated into the topsoil.
Following any pH adjustments, the area should be tilled to loosen compacted soil and improve drainage, since Bermuda grass does not tolerate poor drainage or wet soils. Incorporating organic amendments like compost or topsoil can improve soil structure and nutrient retention. Finally, the soil surface must be finely graded and leveled to create a smooth seedbed and ensure proper water runoff away from structures.
Choosing and Implementing Your Planting Method
Establishing a Bermuda lawn can be done using three primary methods: seeding, sodding, or using vegetative material like sprigs and plugs. The choice depends on budget, desired timeline for coverage, and the specific Bermuda grass variety. Some hybrid varieties are sterile and must be planted vegetatively.
Seeding
Planting Bermuda grass from seed is the most economical method, and it is best done in late spring or early summer when soil temperatures are consistently above 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. The recommended seeding rate is typically 2 to 3 pounds of pure live seed per 1,000 square feet. The seeds must be planted at a shallow depth, ideally between 1/8 and 1/4 inch, to ensure successful germination. After broadcasting the seed, lightly raking or dragging the area helps achieve the proper depth, and a light rolling firms the soil for good seed-to-soil contact.
Sodding
Sodding involves laying rolls or slabs of mature grass onto the prepared soil, offering instant coverage and a fully established appearance. This method is the most expensive but provides immediate erosion control and reduces the amount of initial establishment care required. Sod must be laid tightly together, staggering the seams in a brick-like pattern to prevent weed intrusion and moisture loss. Once the sod is laid, a water-filled sod roller should be used to press the turf firmly against the underlying soil, eliminating air pockets and ensuring robust root-to-soil contact.
Sprigs and Plugs
Sprigs are pieces of stolons and rhizomes, while plugs are small sections of sod; both are vegetative methods used for establishing hybrid varieties. Sprigs are broadcast over the prepared soil surface and then pressed or lightly disked into the soil at a depth of 1 to 2 inches, ensuring that about one-third of the sprig remains exposed above the surface. Plugs are planted into holes spaced 12 to 18 inches apart. Both plugs and sprigs rely on the Bermuda grass’s aggressive spreading nature to fill in the gaps, which generally takes a full growing season for complete coverage.
Crucial Care for Initial Establishment
The first few weeks after planting are crucial and require a distinct watering and fertilization regimen to promote deep rooting and canopy closure. Immediately after planting, a high-phosphorus “starter fertilizer” should be applied, as phosphorus is essential for strong root development in new turf. Common starter fertilizer ratios, where the middle number represents phosphorus (P), include formulations like 4-6-4 or 10-10-10.
The watering schedule depends heavily on the planting method, but the goal is to keep the upper soil layer constantly moist without being saturated. For seeds or sprigs, this means frequent, light applications of water—four to six times a day, applying approximately 1/8 inch of water each time—to prevent the shallow material from drying out. Sod and plugs require more water less frequently; they should be watered deeply and immediately after installation to saturate the sod and the soil beneath.
As the grass begins to establish roots, the watering frequency should be gradually reduced while the duration is increased to encourage roots to grow deeper into the soil. Once the new grass reaches about an inch in height, the frequency can be reduced to one deep watering per day. Eventually, transition to deep, infrequent watering of 1 to 1.25 inches per week once the turf is fully rooted. The first mowing should occur when the new grass reaches about 1.5 times the desired height (typically 1 to 2 inches). Use a sharp blade and never remove more than one-third of the grass blade height during any single mowing event.