Bare root perennials are plants harvested and shipped in a dormant state, meaning they are sold without any soil around their root system. They are essentially sleeping plants, which allows them to be easily packaged and transported from the nursery to your garden location. This method offers several distinct advantages for the home gardener, primarily revolving around cost and selection. Purchasing perennials in this form is often significantly more cost-effective than buying potted plants because you avoid paying for the weight of the soil or the container. The lightweight nature of bare roots reduces transportation costs and allows nurseries to offer a much larger selection of varieties, including specialized or less common types. These dormant plants typically possess a robust root system that establishes quickly once planted, leading to healthy, vigorous growth in the first season.
Initial Handling and Preparation
Upon receiving your bare root perennials, immediately open the package and inspect the contents to ensure the roots are firm and appear healthy. The roots should not be completely dry, nor should they feel soft or mushy, which could indicate rot. If you notice any damaged, broken, or excessively long roots, use clean snips to trim them back slightly, which can stimulate new growth once planted.
If you cannot plant the roots immediately, their dormancy must be maintained to prevent premature sprouting, which stresses the plant. Store the roots in a cool, dark location, such as a refrigerator or an unheated garage, where the temperature remains consistently above freezing, ideally around 40°F. Ensure the roots are kept slightly moist, perhaps wrapped in damp sphagnum moss or their original packing material, but avoid soaking them during this storage period.
Before planting, the dried roots need to be fully rehydrated to prepare them for active growth. Place the entire root mass into a bucket of tepid water and let them soak for a period ranging from 30 minutes to a few hours. This hydration process restores the moisture lost during transit, making the roots pliable and significantly improving the plant’s ability to absorb water once it is in the soil. Do not let the roots soak for more than 12 hours, as this can lead to root rot or suffocation.
Preparing the Planting Site
Selecting the correct location is the first step toward long-term success, as the site must match the perennial’s specific needs for sunlight and moisture. Most perennials thrive in a location that receives at least six hours of sun daily, but some varieties prefer partial shade or full shade, so always confirm the plant’s requirements. Before planting, the designated area must be cleared of all existing weeds and debris, which compete with the new perennial for water and nutrients.
The health of the soil is directly related to the plant’s establishment, making soil preparation a significant focus of this stage. Loosen the soil to a depth of at least 12 to 15 inches, which allows the new roots to easily extend outward and encourages better aeration and water penetration. If the site has dense clay or very sandy soil, you should incorporate a generous amount of organic matter, such as well-rotted compost or aged manure, into the entire planting bed. This amendment improves the soil structure, enhancing drainage in heavy soils and increasing water retention in fast-draining, sandy conditions.
To confirm adequate drainage, perform a simple test by digging a hole and filling it with water; if the water drains away within a few hours, the site is suitable. Proper preparation ensures the plant is not sitting in soggy soil, which is a common cause of root disease and failure to thrive. A well-prepared site provides the optimal environment for the bare root perennial to break dormancy and begin its active growth cycle.
The Step-by-Step Planting Process
Once the roots are hydrated and the soil is prepared, the mechanical process of planting can begin with the excavation of the planting hole. Dig a hole that is substantially wider than the fully spread root system, typically two to three times the width, but only as deep as the roots are long. Creating a wide hole, rather than a deep one, encourages the roots to grow outward into the surrounding, softer soil instead of just downward.
In the center of this wide hole, construct a small, firm mound of soil upon which the perennial will rest. Place the bare root plant directly on top of this central mound, taking care to spread the roots out evenly in all directions, draping them down the sides of the cone. This action ensures the roots are not crowded or bent back on themselves, which is a condition known as J-rooting that can inhibit future growth.
The crown of the plant, which is the point where the roots meet the stem or dormant buds, must be positioned precisely at or just slightly above the surrounding soil line. Planting the crown too deeply can lead to rot and suffocation, while planting too high may cause the roots to dry out quickly. For plants like peonies, the planting depth is especially sensitive, often requiring the buds to be only an inch or two below the surface.
Begin backfilling the hole with the excavated soil, gently working it around and between the spread roots to eliminate air pockets, which can dry out and kill the developing root hairs. You can use your fingers or a gentle stream of water to help settle the soil and ensure good root-to-soil contact. Once the hole is filled, lightly tamp the soil surface with your hands to firm it, but avoid compacting the soil excessively, as roots require oxygen to function. The final step is to water the newly planted perennial deeply and thoroughly to fully settle the soil and provide the initial moisture for the plant to begin its transition out of dormancy.
Immediate Post-Planting Care
The first few weeks after planting are dedicated to ensuring the perennial establishes a connection with the surrounding soil and begins to send out new feeder roots. Immediately after the initial deep watering, the focus shifts to maintaining consistent moisture without allowing the soil to become waterlogged. The newly planted roots have a low tolerance for soggy conditions, which can lead to fungal diseases and root death.
Check the soil moisture every few days, and water only when the top inch or two of soil begins to feel dry to the touch. This might mean watering once or twice a week, depending on weather conditions. Consistent moisture is necessary until the plant is visibly established with new top growth, a process that can take several weeks or even a full month. Even drought-tolerant varieties require this regular hydration while their root systems are developing in the new location.
Applying a layer of organic mulch, such as shredded bark or compost, is beneficial for regulating soil temperature and conserving moisture. Spread a 2 to 3-inch layer of mulch over the planting area, but make sure to keep the material a few inches away from the plant’s crown or stem. Mulch piled directly against the plant can trap excessive moisture against the tissues, which invites pests and promotes rot.