Growing garlic in a pot offers a flexible solution for gardeners with limited space. While garlic is a forgiving plant, successful container cultivation requires attention to specific needs that differ from in-ground planting. Providing the right conditions, including adequate container size and proper soil, ensures a rewarding harvest of homegrown bulbs. The process spans a long season, typically planted in the fall and harvested the following summer, making planning ahead important.
Selecting Supplies and Preparing Cloves
Choosing the appropriate container is the first step, and depth is crucial for success. The pot must be at least 8 to 10 inches deep to allow for proper root development and bulb formation, though 12 inches is often recommended. Adequate drainage is mandatory; the container must have multiple holes to prevent waterlogging, which can cause the cloves to rot. Use a loose, well-draining potting mix, ideally amended with compost for sustained nutrition. Avoid garden soil because it tends to compact in pots, limiting root growth and drainage.
For planting, select large, healthy cloves separated from a whole bulb, ensuring the papery skin remains intact. Source certified seed garlic from a nursery or online supplier rather than using grocery store cloves, which may be treated with growth inhibitors. Fall planting, typically between September and November, allows the cloves to establish roots before winter dormancy, which is necessary for the best bulb development. The largest cloves should be reserved for planting, as they generally produce the largest resulting bulbs.
Step-by-Step Planting Instructions
Fill the container with the potting mix, leaving about two inches of space below the rim. Gently push the individual cloves into the soil with the flat, root-end facing down and the pointed tip upward. Plant the clove approximately two to three inches deep, covering it with one to two inches of soil. Proper spacing is necessary for the bulbs to expand, so place each clove three to four inches away from its neighbors and the container sides.
After planting, lightly pat the soil surface and thoroughly water the container until moisture drains from the bottom holes. This initial watering settles the soil and eliminates air pockets. The pot should then be placed in a location that receives full sunlight, ideally six to eight hours of direct sun daily. While the cloves will not show much activity above ground during the fall, they establish a robust root system in preparation for spring growth.
Ongoing Care for Potted Garlic
Potted garlic requires full sun exposure throughout the growing season for robust bulb development. Consistent moisture is necessary, particularly during the active growth phase in spring and early summer, but the soil must never become saturated. Water deeply once the top one or two inches of soil feel dry to the touch. Proper drainage is crucial, as overwatering is a common issue that can lead to root rot.
In early spring, once green shoots emerge, the plants benefit from a nitrogen-rich fertilizer application to support leaf growth. Healthy foliage is directly related to the final size of the bulb underground. A second feeding with a balanced or high-potassium fertilizer can be applied about 60 days later, just before the bulbs begin their final swelling stage. All feeding and watering should cease a few weeks before the anticipated harvest to help the bulbs firm up.
Overwintering potted garlic presents a challenge since the roots are not insulated by the surrounding ground. In colder climates, the pot must be protected from hard freezes to prevent the cloves from perishing. Options include moving the container to an unheated garage or shed, or insulating the pot outdoors by wrapping it in burlap or placing a thick layer of straw mulch over the soil surface. Even during winter, the soil should be checked occasionally and lightly watered if it becomes completely dry, provided it is not frozen.
Knowing When and How to Harvest
Determining the precise harvest time is important; harvesting too early results in small cloves, and waiting too long causes the bulbs to split open. The visual cue for maturity is the yellowing and browning of the lower leaves while the top four to five leaves remain green. A general rule is to harvest when about one-third to half of the leaves have died back. At this point, the plant redirects its energy into the final bulb formation.
To harvest, avoid pulling the stalk, as this can separate the stem from the bulb and interfere with the curing process. Instead, gently loosen the soil around the bulb with a trowel or carefully dump the entire pot’s contents onto a surface. The bulbs should be lifted carefully to avoid bruising or damaging the skin. Once harvested, the bulbs, with their stems and roots still attached, must be cured for long-term storage.
Curing involves drying the bulbs in a warm, shaded, and well-ventilated area, such as a covered porch or shed, for two to four weeks. The process is complete when the stems and outer wrappers are completely dry and papery. After curing, the roots can be trimmed to a half-inch and the stems cut about an inch above the bulb. The finished garlic can then be stored in a cool, dark, and dry location.