Fingerling potatoes are a distinctive, gourmet variety characterized by their small, elongated, and often knobby shape, resembling a finger. They are celebrated for their thin skin, firm, waxy texture, and rich, nutty flavor, making them highly prized in culinary circles. Growing this popular vegetable is a straightforward process that requires attention to preparation and specific cultural practices. This guide provides a detailed, step-by-step approach to ensure a successful and flavorful harvest.
Preparing Seed Potatoes and Soil
Successful planting begins with selecting certified seed potatoes, which guarantees they are disease-free and have not been treated with sprout inhibitors. If a seed piece is larger than a chicken egg, it should be cut into chunks, ensuring each piece contains at least two or three “eyes.” After cutting, allow the pieces to sit at room temperature for one to two days so the cut surfaces can form a protective, cork-like layer, known as callousing, which prevents rot once planted.
To encourage robust, early growth, a process called “chitting” or greening is recommended about two weeks before planting. Spread the seed pieces in a single layer in a bright, moderate-temperature location, ideally around 60°F. This exposure to light and warmth will prompt the eyes to develop short, sturdy sprouts.
The planting bed should be prepared with loose, well-draining soil, as potatoes will rot in heavy, saturated conditions. Aim for a slightly acidic pH between 6.0 and 6.5 to discourage common potato diseases like scab. Incorporate aged compost or other organic matter, working the soil to a depth of 10 to 12 inches to provide an airy medium for tuber development.
Timing and Technique for Planting
The optimal time for planting fingerling potatoes is in the early spring, after the danger of a hard frost has passed, yet while the soil remains cool. Potatoes are a cool-season crop, and the ideal planting window opens when the soil temperature consistently reaches 45°F. Planting too early in very cold, wet soil can lead to the seed pieces rotting before they can sprout.
The traditional method involves digging a trench four to six inches deep across the prepared planting bed. Place the seed potato pieces in the trench with the sprouts facing upward. Position the pieces about 10 to 12 inches apart, with rows spaced two to three feet apart to allow for proper hilling later.
Cover them gently with three to four inches of the surrounding loose soil. This initial shallow covering allows the soil to warm around the seed piece, encouraging rapid emergence. The remaining soil in the trench will be used later for hilling.
Essential Care During Growth
The most distinctive maintenance practice for growing potatoes is hilling, which involves drawing soil up around the base of the plant’s stems. This action serves two purposes: preventing the developing tubers from being exposed to sunlight and creating more underground stem area for new tubers to form. Exposure to light causes the potatoes to turn green and produce a toxic compound called solanine, making them unsafe to eat.
Begin the hilling process when the emerging plants reach a height of six to eight inches. Carefully pull the loose soil up and around the stems, covering all but the top third of the foliage. This process should be repeated every two to three weeks, or each time the plant grows another six to eight inches, continuing until the plants begin to flower.
Consistent moisture is important for fingerling potatoes, especially during the period when the plants are flowering, as this signals the initiation of tuber development. The soil should be kept uniformly moist but never waterlogged to prevent rot and promote smooth, well-shaped potatoes. Applying organic mulch, such as straw, after hilling can help regulate soil temperature and conserve moisture, since tuber formation slows significantly when soil temperatures exceed 70°F.
Harvesting and Curing Fingerlings
Fingerling potatoes typically mature between 70 and 90 days after planting, depending on the variety and local growing conditions. An early harvest of “new potatoes” can be gently dug when the plants begin to flower. For a mature crop, wait until the plant foliage naturally begins to yellow and die back. This physiological signal indicates the plant has finished putting energy into the leaves and is now focused on bulking up the tubers.
When the foliage has fully died back, stop watering and allow the soil to dry for about ten days, which helps toughen the skins. Use a garden fork to gently lift the tubers, starting several inches away from the plant’s center to avoid spearing them. Brush off the excess soil, but avoid washing the harvested potatoes, as moisture can encourage rot during storage.
The final step is curing, which is necessary to toughen the thin skins and heal any minor harvest wounds. Spread the unwashed potatoes in a single layer in a dark, humid, and well-ventilated location for one to two weeks, maintaining a temperature between 50°F and 60°F. This curing time significantly extends the storage life by minimizing moisture loss and protecting against disease.