Growing a Christmas tree from a seedling is a rewarding, long-term project. This process begins with small transplants, which typically arrive in one of two forms: bare-root or containerized. Bare-root seedlings are shipped dormant without soil around their roots, making them highly susceptible to drying out. Containerized seedlings, also called plugs, are grown in a small volume of soil medium and offer a more protected root system for planting.
Essential Site and Seedling Preparation
Planting during the tree’s natural dormancy period is essential for successful establishment, generally targeting early spring or late fall. Spring planting is often the most successful because cool, moist soil minimizes transplant shock and provides a natural water supply as the tree awakens. Avoid planting when the soil is frozen, waterlogged, or excessively dry.
The planting site must offer full sunlight, ideally receiving at least six hours of direct sun daily. Good drainage is similarly important, so avoid low-lying areas that collect standing water, known as frost pockets. While Christmas tree varieties tolerate various soil conditions, they prefer well-drained, loamy textures. Conifers thrive in slightly acidic soil (pH 5.5 to 6.5), which should be determined by a soil test before planting.
Proper handling of seedlings before planting greatly impacts survival. Bare-root seedlings must be kept cool, dark, and moist to prevent the root hairs from drying out. A brief soaking of the roots in water for one to six hours immediately before planting will rehydrate them, but soaking too long can drown the roots. If planting cannot happen immediately, the roots should be covered with moist packing material or temporarily buried in a shallow trench, a technique known as heeling in.
Step-by-Step Planting Technique
The planting hole should be dug wide enough to easily accommodate the entire root system without bending or cramping the roots. Ideally, the hole should be two to three times the width of the root spread, but only deep enough to place the root collar at the soil surface. The root collar is the flared section of the tree trunk where the stem transitions to the root system.
Positioning the seedling at the correct depth is critical; planting too deep can cause the stem to rot, while planting too shallow risks root desiccation. The roots must be spread out naturally within the hole, avoiding “J-rooting,” where roots are forced into an unnatural, upward-curving position. J-rooted trees often fail to establish because the roots cannot grow outward to anchor the tree.
After placing the seedling, backfill the hole using the original native soil, ensuring large clumps are broken up for good root contact. As the soil is returned, gently tamping it down helps eliminate air pockets, which can dry out roots and lead to tree death. The final step is a thorough initial watering of the planting area to further settle the soil around the roots and remove any remaining air gaps.
Immediate Post-Planting Care
The first growing season is the most vulnerable period, requiring a consistent watering regimen to help the roots establish. Deep, infrequent watering is more beneficial than frequent, shallow watering, as it encourages roots to grow downward in search of moisture. During dry periods, most seedlings need about one inch of water per week for the first one to two years.
Applying a 2- to 4-inch layer of organic mulch, such as wood chips or pine needles, helps retain soil moisture and stabilize soil temperature. Spread the mulch in a wide ring but keep it several inches away from the tree trunk to prevent moisture buildup that can lead to rot and pest entry. This “mulch donut” also suppresses competing weeds, which steal water and nutrients from the young tree.
Maintaining a weed-free zone immediately around the seedling is the most effective way to ensure survival during the establishment phase. Competition from grass and other weeds significantly reduces water and nutrient availability for the developing root system. Simple physical protection, such as installing tubular tree shelters or netting, is necessary to guard against deer browsing and gnawing rodents.
Long-Term Growth and Shaping
Once the tree is well-established (typically two to four years after planting), management shifts toward shaping to achieve the dense, conical form characteristic of a Christmas tree. This process, known as shearing, involves cutting the new growth, or “candles,” that emerge each spring. Shearing must be performed annually to stimulate the formation of new buds and increase foliage density.
Controlling the height and taper of the tree is achieved by pruning the terminal leader, the topmost vertical shoot. The leader is cut back to a desired length (usually 8 to 12 inches) to control the tree’s height growth for the coming year. Cutting the leader encourages the side branches, or laterals, to fill out, maintaining the desirable taper.
Fertilization is generally unnecessary in the first year because the transplant has nutrient reserves, and water is the primary limiting factor for survival. If soil tests indicate a deficiency, a nitrogen fertilization program can begin in the second year to support vigorous growth. Ongoing monitoring is necessary to inspect for common issues such as late spring frost damage or the presence of pests and diseases common to evergreens.