The Amaryllis is a stunning indoor plant, highly valued for its large, trumpet-shaped flowers that typically bloom during the late winter months. Often purchased as a large, dormant bulb, it provides a rewarding experience for home gardeners eager for color when the outdoor landscape is gray. Successfully growing this tropical beauty, scientifically known as Hippeastrum, begins with proper selection and planting to ensure the spectacular floral display it is known for. The process involves specific steps to encourage both initial blooming and subsequent re-flowering in future seasons.
Essential Supplies and Bulb Selection
The size and health of the bulb are the most significant factors determining the quality and quantity of the blooms. A healthy bulb should feel solid and heavy, like a firm onion, with no soft spots, mold, or signs of injury around the basal plate (the root area). Larger bulbs, particularly those measuring 28 to 32 centimeters in circumference, contain greater stored energy reserves and are more likely to produce multiple flower stalks.
The container chosen for planting should be heavy (terracotta is a good option) to prevent the top-heavy plant from tipping over once the tall flower stalks appear. The pot only needs to be slightly larger than the bulb itself, allowing for about one to two inches of clearance around the sides. Drainage holes are necessary to prevent the bulb from sitting in water, which can quickly lead to rot. A well-draining potting mix is recommended, and a standard soilless mix works well. If the bulb’s roots appear dry, a brief pre-soak in lukewarm water for a few hours can help rehydrate them before planting.
Planting the Amaryllis Bulb
Before planting, fill the pot about halfway with potting mix to create a base for the bulb’s roots. Center the Amaryllis bulb with its neck pointing upward, allowing the roots to spread downward into the soil. It is crucial to set the bulb so that a significant portion remains exposed above the soil line.
Gently fill in the soil around the bulb’s sides, pressing it down to secure the bulb firmly in place. Stop adding soil when approximately one-third to one-half of the bulb is still visible above the surface. Leaving the top exposed helps prevent the neck of the bulb from rotting due to excess moisture.
Initial Care for Sprouting
Immediately after planting, thoroughly water the bulb to settle the soil and begin the growth cycle. After this initial watering, subsequent watering must be sparse until new green growth is clearly visible. Overwatering before the roots are fully active is the primary cause of bulb rot.
Place the newly planted bulb in a warm location (ideally 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit) to encourage dormancy to break. While a bright location is beneficial, direct sun is not necessary at this initial stage. A sunny window is appropriate once growth begins to show. Patience is needed, as it typically takes four to eight weeks before the flower stalk or leaves emerge.
Encouraging Re-Blooming
Once the spectacular flowers have faded, the task shifts to recharging the bulb’s energy reserves for the next year’s bloom cycle. Cut the spent flower stalk down to about an inch above the bulb, taking care not to damage any emerging foliage. The long, strap-like leaves that follow the bloom are instrumental in photosynthesis, which creates the energy stored in the bulb to fuel future flowers.
The plant should be treated like a regular houseplant throughout the spring and summer. Place it in the sunniest possible indoor location, or move it outdoors after the danger of frost has passed. During this summer growth phase, continue to water regularly and fertilize monthly with a standard houseplant fertilizer to maximize the energy stored in the bulb.
To successfully force a re-bloom, the plant must go through a period of dormancy, which usually begins in late summer or early fall. To trigger this rest, stop all watering and fertilizing, signaling the bulb to prepare for winter. The leaves will naturally begin to yellow and wither, and once dry, they can be trimmed off at the base. Move the potted bulb to a cool, dark location (50 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit), such as a basement or closet. This cool, dry rest period must last eight to twelve weeks to properly reset the bulb’s internal clock. After this dormancy, the bulb can be brought back into a warm, bright area and the cycle of watering and blooming can begin again.